Badger

Badger

Iron Bark II

Iron Bark II

About Me

My photo
I first crossed the Atlantic in 1975 on 'Stormalong', a 28ft Wharram-designed catamaran. Back in the UK, Pete and I bought an ex 6-metre racing yacht, 'Sheila', living on her for 4 years. Wanting to do more and go further, we built 'Badger' - the best boat in the world - sailing her 110,000 miles, to the Arctic and the Antarctic, around the Atlantic North and South and into the Baltic. She had junk rig - the only rig I will ever now cruise with. Pete wanted to build a 38 ft junk-rigged catamaran, 'China Moon' - which he designed. But before the project was finished, we went our separate ways. A year later I joined Trevor Robertson aboard his 35ft 'Iron Bark'. We explored the Canadian Maritimes, crossed the Atlantic twice, wintered in Greenland and crossed the Pacific to Australia and New Zealand. I fell in love with NZ and jumping ship, bought my own boat while Trevor carried on voyaging. I put a junk rig onto ‘Fantail’ and, having decided that N Island offered better cruising opportunities than S Island, sailed up there in 2012. Looking for a boat to see me out, I built the 26ft 'FanShi' and now live on board her, pottering about, generally around the Bay of Islands.

Monday, 30 April 2007

PORLAMAR, ISLA MARGARITA, VENEZUELA

Anchorage

Porlamar anchorage is safe, but rolly. Anchor in 4 to 6 m, sand. Land your dinghy on the long jetty, being aware that there is less than 1 m of water at its end.

Clearance

Clear in using ‘Juan’ at Marina Juan, at the base of the jetty. We were told that the cost is B140, 000 (US $1 = 2,100 at bank rate; 2,300 on the street.)

General

Rum and beer are both very cheap and off good quality. Rum was B400/ltr (Superior), beer B9900/case of 24, 250 ml (Polar).

Diesel fuel B200/ltr, delivered to the boat. Less than B100 ashore.

Taxis anywhere in town are B5,000.

The best vegetables that we found were sold by C M (Centrale Margarita) Supermercado. Rattan, on Ave 4 Mayonnaise is the best all-round supermarket, but with the exception of fuel and alcohol, Porlamar is not particularly cheap and Panama would be a better bet for boats Pacific-bound.

Visa credit card was widely accepted, but it was necessary to supply additional ID, preferably a passport. A photocopy of the passport also works and saves the risk of carrying a passport ashore.

Getting cash from a credit card via ATMs is difficult or impossible and very risky: thieves and con men lurk around these machines. We were told that Banco Provinciale accepts foreign credit cards, but we couldn’t get cash from their machines or from anyone else.
Villamil, Isabela, Galapagos








Approaches



There are banks off Villamil, which break in a heavy swell, even at 10 m depths. This can make the approach rather tense. The shallowest section, on the recommended track, has a least depth of 7 or 8 m. However, this are is partially protected by the offshore banks and is unlikely to break except in extreme conditions. The waves lift and peak with a heavy swell, but the passage is smooth in normal conditions.

Steer a course of about 295°T, parallel to the breakers on the banks, keeping in at least 40 m of water, until the first green buoy bears about 345°T. Alter course for the buoy and leave it about 100 m to port. Alter course to pass between the red and green buoys at the entrance to the anchorage: steer about 045°T. The depths are about 7 or 8 m in this area and again, the swell can lift and peak in heavy conditions, but are unlikely to break.

Anchorage

The anchorage is sheltered by islands. Anchor in about 4 m.
PANAMA CANAL TRANSIT, 2006

In March and April 2006, the busy season for yachts transiting the Canal into the Pacific, the waiting time was typically 20 days.


Anchoring and berthing

On arrival in Colon, a yacht has the option of anchoring on the Flats, berthing at the Panama Canal Yacht Club, or using the marina in Shelter Cove. Anchoring is free, but it can be choppy and is about a half-mile dinghy ride to the PCYC, where you can leave the dinghy. As well as the dinghy dock, there are washing machines, fresh water, rubbish bins, a bar and restaurant. You can make use of these facilities for $2 a day. The yacht club will also hold mail and provides Internet access. All prices are reasonable. Times and dates for transits are posted here. The marina berths at both PCYC and Shelter Bay were about 50¢ per ft per day. While the PCYC is convenient for Colón, it is run down and grubby, while Shelter Bay Marina is brand new, with excellent facilities, including on board Internet. It is situated in an attractive rural area with pleasant walks. Although a launch to Colón is provided, this occasionally broke down.

Clearing

On arrival in Colón, clear Customs and Immigration and request your canal transit immediately: this is not done automatically, because there are transient yachts coming to Colón merely to provision.

Clearing requires that you visit 5 offices, scattered around Colón, with appropriate clearances, ship’s papers, passports, photocopies of ship’s papers, crew lists, and passport photos of the crew. There are several taxi drivers (Hines and Ellington are both efficient) at the Panama Canal Yacht Club, who will take you around, arrange for the correct number of photocopies and photographs, translate forms and generally walk you through the whole procedure in about 2 hours, at a cost of US $20 and hour, plus $67 to $97 (depending on the size of the boat) in charges. Alternatively, you can do it yourself, but this will probably take about 2 days.

Most streets in Colón are sufficiently dangerous to justify the cost of using a taxi: fares around the town are $1 and it costs $2 to go to the supermarkets a little further out of town. Not all the taxi drivers are as honest as they might be and it’s worth establishing the cost before getting in the taxi.
AVES DEL BARLOVENTO, VENEZUELA

Approach

There are more coral patches than charted in the approach to the obvious anchorage, NE of the light tower. These are easy to avoid in good light, but a serious hazard in overcast conditions.

Anchorage

Anchor in 4 to 12 m, sand.

The anchorage is used by fishing boats. There is a shallow well in the middle of the island, with fairly brackish water. It is situated about 300 m W of the light tower.

An alternative anchorage is in the lee of the reef, further E or behind the most W sand cay.

The channels among the mangroves are home to hundreds of red-footed boobies. Many of these were nesting, when visited in March, with chicks in all stages of development. Non-breeding birds also roost in the mangroves. The island is worth visiting if only to see the boobies.

Saturday, 28 April 2007

CRUISING NOTES ON THE COAST OF LABRADOR, COLLECTED BY PETE & ANNIE HILL 1997 AND BY ANNIE HILL AND TREVOR ROBERTSON 2002.



CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION
CHART OF SOUTH LABRADOR
CHART OF NORTH LABRADOR
CORRECTIONS TO CANADIAN CHARTS
SCHOONER COVE, L’ANSE AU LOUP
RED BAY
BATTLE HARBOUR
ST FRANCIS HARBOUR
SNUG HARBOUR
INDIAN TICKLE
BLACKGUARD BAY
EDWARDS HARBOUR
INDIAN HARBOUR
STRAWBERRY HARBOUR
MAKKOVIK BAY
BLIND MUGFORD TICKLE
HOPEDALE
MULTA COVE
NEWFOUNDLAND HARBOUR
TIKIGATSIAK COVE
KANGELUKTANNA BAY
BRIDGES PASSAGE
KAUK HARBOUR
NAIN
EDDY CLIFF ANCHORAGE
PORT MANVERS RUN
ROUTE TO OKAK BAY
DAWES HARBOUR
GREEN ISLAND HARBOUR
THREE MOUNTAIN HARBOUR
NAPAKTOK BAY
HEBRON HARBOUR
SAGLEK BAY, EASTERN HARBOUR
SAGLEK BAY, ST JOHN’S HARBOUR
SAGLEK FIORD, KANGALASIORVIK BAY
SCHOONER COVE, NACHVAK FIORD
CAPE WHITE HANDKERCHIEF
SEAPLANE COVE
COLLINS POINT BAY
BIB COVE
SHOAL BAY
ISELIN HARBOUR
CLARK HARBOUR
‘NANUK COVE’, BUTTON ISLANDS

Friday, 27 April 2007


These notes have been compiled in the hope that they may be of use to small-boat sailors who are planning a cruise to Labrador. They are no more than simply notes and record places visited during summer cruises in 1997 and 2002. The anchorages were visited in mostly good weather and any comment as to their general suitability must be judged bearing this in mind. The sketch charts are not more than that, and are intended to expand the information available from formal surveys. The soundings given are along the track that we took, and in no way represent a survey of the anchorages - proceed with caution. Due to the fact that the majority of the Canadian charts covering the area are in Imperial measurements, the sketch charts have been drawn accordingly.

The Labrador is a wonderful cruising ground, with countless anchorages, many of them uncharted and unexplored. The whole coast is little populated with no-one living north of Nain. Scenery is often spectacular, particularly in the north.

For some mysterious reason, the area is little visited. In 1997 we saw only two other yachts north of Newfoundland and only one in 2002. Considering how accessible this coast is from either the USA or the UK, it is little short of amazing how few yachts visit the area - many more sail to the South Shetland Islands each year.

A yacht needs to be self sufficient north of Nain, and even to the south, not much is available beyond basic provisions and fuel. When cruising this area, a yacht needs to have heavy ground tackle and due to the prevalence of kelp, a good fisherman anchor, such as the three-piece one made by Luke, is almost essential. (This piece of equipment can be supplied by Henry Fuller at Cape Breton Boatyard, who usually has one or two in stock. Tel (+1) 902 295 264.)

The price a yachtsman must pay for this superb cruising ground is a combination of fog, blackflies, mosquitoes, the threat of ice (in a bad year), inadequate charts and a lack of weather forecasts, but it is all very worthwhile.

Charts and Pilots

Canadian Sailing Directions, Labrador and Hudson Bay
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador
Cruising Guide to the Labrador (cruising notes complied largely by CCA members, visiting Labrador since 1955), edited by Alexander Weld and available from 211 Ash Street, Weston, MA 02193, USA.

While Canadian charts are the best ones to have, they vary enormously from old, dubious surveys in the north, to up-to-date, recent surveys in the south. The majority of the charts are still in Imperial measurements. The new-style Imperial charts are coloured identically to the Metric charts and as contiguous charts can change from one measurement to the other, it is very necessary to be aware of this fact. The measurements are not particularly clearly noted and as the size of many of the charts necessitates their being folded even on a full-sized Admiralty chart table, it is recommended that they be clearly marked in two or three places in order to save confusion.

The chart data also vary from one to another; GPS will be less unreliable if the navigator is aware of this.

Suggested Reading

Arctic Dreams, Barry Lopez - Picador
West Viking, Farley Mowat
The Lure of the Labrador, Paul B Sheldon - Seven Seas Press
North to Baffin Land, John T Rowland (o.o. print)
Arctic Lights Desmond Holdridge, Robert Hale (o.o print)
Rough Passage Commander R D Graham, Mariners' Library

CHART OF SOUTH LABRADOR




Thursday, 26 April 2007

CHART OF NORTH LABRADOR

CORRECTIONS TO CANADIAN CHARTS

Chart 4763

The island in charted position 57º18.5' N 61º46.7' W marked ‘E.D.’ does not exist.

The island approximately 1 M S, in charted position 57º17.6' N 61º46.8' W, also marked ‘E.D.’ does exist. It is around 30 ft high and sparsely vegetated.

Chart 4769

Bradford Island, in charted position 58º44.7' N 62º53.3' W does not exist.

The island, in charted position 59º05.9' N 63º26' W, close to the ‘Recommended Track’ to Schooner Cove, does not exist

Chart 4771

There are at least two uncharted drying rocks, less than 2 M N of the ‘Recommended Track’, between Cape White Handkerchief and Big White Bearskin Island.

The skerry, in charted position 59º21.5' N 63º34' W, SW of Big White Bearskin Island, is a rock that covers at high water and does not always break. As it lies close to the ‘Recommended Track’, this makes it a considerable danger. Uncharted foul ground extends from Big White Bearskin Island towards this rock.

The charted group of skerries, in position 59º21.5' N 63º37' W, SW of Beacon Island, is a boulder moraine that covers at high water springs and does not always break.

THE HARBOURS AND ANCHORAGES


SCHOONER COVE, L’ANSE AU LOUP

51°25' N 57°48' W
Charts: 4020 Strait of Belle Isle, 4668 Anchorages in the Strait of Belle Isle

Canadian Pilot: Newfoundland
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 10.69
Cruising Guide to the Labrador A-3

Variation: 26°W (8'E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 3.5 ft

General

Schooner Cove lies in the S corner of L’anse au Loup.

Approach

The approach is straightforward.

Anchorage

Anchor near the head of the cove in 3 fms, sand. The cove is open to N and NE.

A cabin stands on the shore - probably only used at weekends in the summer. There is a track, leading to the village of 'Lancy Loo'.






RED BAY


51°44' N 56°26' W
Charts: 4020 Strait of Belle Isle, 4669 Red Bay

Canadian Pilot: Newfoundland
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 10.59
Cruising Guide to the Labrador A-1

Variation: 26°W (8'E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 3.5 ft

General

Red Bay is on the Labrador side of the Strait of Belle Isle. It is a landlocked harbour, but quite strong winds can funnel through the Basin. The wreck on the shore of Saddle Island was caused by this type of wind.

Approach

The approach is straightforward: pass W of Saddle Island. The overhead cable to Saddle Island, on its NE side, has only about 24 ft clearance (not 124 ft, as charted).

Anchorage

We anchored as shown on the sketch chart, in The Harbour, in 5 fms.

The main attraction in Red Bay is the museum about Basque whaling, carried out in Red Bay in the sixteenth century. It is well worth a visit.

Don’t miss the video film about the excavation of the San Juan, which was wrecked in 1565, off Saddle Island. A walk around Saddle Island is also worthwhile to view the remains of the whalers’ shore stations.





Wednesday, 25 April 2007

BATTLE HARBOUR

52°16.5' N 55°35' W
Chart 5031(M) St Lewis Sound and Inlet

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch II, p 135
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 12.11
Cruising Guide to the Labrador B-25

Variation: 26°W (8'E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 5 ft


Approach

From the N, the approach is deep and straightforward. Pass W of Great Island, either side of Black Rock and between Killick Island and Gull Rock.

From the S, pass between Gunning Rock and Gunning Point and then close S of Mad Moll, which usually breaks heavily. Southern Tickle opens up abruptly, immediately after passing Mad Moll. The tickle is very narrow (less than 40 ft clear width) and subject to considerable surge, even in moderate conditions. Turn into Southern Tickle and make an ‘S’ curve, firstly to clear the ledges off the W side of the entrance, then for those on the E side. The surge can make this difficult.

If entering from the S under sail, do not be tempted to reduce sail too early. Keep plenty of way on because the high ground around Southern tickle will blanket the sails and make control difficult in the surge off the entrance points. We would have had trouble maintaining control of Iron Bark without our topsail. If entering under power, the same warning about keeping plenty of way on probably applies.

If Southern Tickle looks too daunting, it is possible to carry on up Crow Rock Tickle, which is deep. The dangers are apparent.

Berthing

Tie up to the W or S side of the public wharf, as directed. If secured to the W side, be prepared to move at short notice because the ferry/tour boat from Mary's Harbour uses this part of the wharf, and comes in frequently and at irregular intervals. The S face of the wharf can accommodate a 50 ft vessel with 14 ft alongside.

Power, water, hot showers and a coin-operated laundry are available. Berthing fees were 50 ¢/ft in 2002.





Tuesday, 24 April 2007

ST FRANCIS HARBOUR

52°33.5' N 55°43' W
Chart 4701 Ship Harbour Head to Camp Islands

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch II, p 149
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 12.47
Cruising Guide to the Labrador B-65

Variation: 26°W (10' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 4 ft

General

St Francis Harbour lies close S of Cape St Francis and is a well-sheltered, landlocked harbour.

Approach

The approach is straightforward. Pass N of Pigeon Island and then keep to the N shore, until past the Chain Rocks. A new light beacon has been established on Cape St Francis. This was extinguished when we visited in 2005.

Anchorage

We anchored in Barnes Cove, in 5 fms.

All the cabins ashore were deserted in 2002, and in a poor state of repair.




SNUG HARBOUR

52°04' N 55°50.5' W
Chart 4702 Corbet Island to Ship Harbour

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch III, p 158
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 12.70
Cruising Guide to the Labrador B-90

Variation: 26°W (10' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 4 ft


General

The appropriately named Snug Harbour lies about 1 M W of Cooper Island and provides a landlocked harbour.

Approach

The approach is straightforward.

Anchorage

The harbour is quite deep, but we anchored off the stream, at the head of the S arm, in 5 fms.

Also at the S end, is a disused fish-packing plant and wharf, which is a useful place to land when going ashore.

Most of the cabins here are being used in the summer.



Monday, 23 April 2007

PENNY HARBOUR


53°09' N 55°46.5' W
Chart 4702 Corbet Island to Ship Harbour Head

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch III, p 166
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 12.95
Cruising Guide to the Labrador B-115

Variation: 27°W (11' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 4 ft


General

Penny Harbour is a landlocked harbour, S of Owl Head, giving complete shelter.

Approach

The approach from the S and E is quite complicated, with many islets, rocks and underwater dangers. The approach from the NE is straightforward, if passing between the Sugarloaf and Bobby Rocks.

Off the N shore of Burke Island, towards its W end, there is a drying rock (awash at low water). This rock is not shown on chart 4702, but is in the position of the 3 in the 53 sounding. In 1997, a small, plastic float marked the rock. Keep to the Owl Head shore, until the channel W of Burke Island is open.

Anchorage

We anchored as shown on the sketch chart, in 15 ft, with plenty of swinging room.
The cabins at the N end of Burke Island belong to Lindsay Cadwell and his family, who live here in the summer. He was very friendly.

A team of huskies were on Owl Head for the summer.





INDIAN TICKLE

53°34' N 56°00' W
Chart 4745 White Point to Sandy Island

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch III, p 179
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 12.133
Cruising Guide to the Labrador B-165

Variation: 26°W (12' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 4 ft


General

Indian Tickle is a narrow passage between Indian Island and Musgrave Land.
A bight on the W side of Indian Island provides a sheltered anchorage, although it is rather exposed to the SW quadrant.

Approach

The approach from the N is straightforward. The approach from S and E is much more complicated. Passing reasonably close E and N of Lynch Island, keeps one clear of Fish Rock, 0.5 M NW from Lynch Island. Then head for St Mary Island, in the entrance to Indian Tickle. In 1997, there were two red buoys in position, as shown on the chart. Keep these to starboard when sailing NW.

Anchorage

We anchored in the bight N of Rover Island in 16 ft. The cabin ashore was deserted.


MULLINS COVE

53°44' N 56°27' W
Chart 5134 Approaches to Cartwright, etc

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch III, p 181
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 12.141

Variation: 26°W (14' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 6 ft

General

Mullins Cove is just N of Table Bay and provides a good anchorage at its head, with shelter from all but the E.

Approach

The approach is straightforward.

Anchorage

We anchored at the head of the cove, in 20 ft. A little swell from the E entered the cove.
On the N shore, a cabin was in use and several salmon nets were set around the edge of the bay.


BLACKGUARD BAY


53°44.5' N 56°40' W
Chart 5134 Approaches to Cartwright, etc

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch III, p 185
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 12.151

Variation: 26°W (14' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 6 ft


General

Blackguard Bay provides anchorage in the S half of the bay.

Approach

Approaching from the E, there is a channel between Indian Head and Cartwright Island, called the Bull Gut, fairly narrow, but with a least depth of 2 fms. Pass S of the three islets.

The approach from the N is straightforward, if either shore is given a good berth - particularly keep clear of Mad Moll, off Cartwright Island.

Anchorage

We anchored off the W shore, opposite Indian head, in 13 ft. It is sheltered from S through W to N. The drying rock SE of the anchorage shows at low water. A northerly swell entered the bay, when visited.

In an E wind, Indian Cove may well provide better shelter, but it was not investigated.




PACKS HARBOUR

53°51.5' N 56°59' W
Chart 5134 Approaches to Cartwright, etc

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch III, p 187
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 12.172
Cruising Guide to the Labrador C-35

Variation: 26°W (14' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 6 ft

General

Packs Harbour is formed by a narrow channel between Hamilton Island and an unnamed island NW of it.

Approach

The NE entrance is foul with rocks. The SW entrance is quite narrow, but in 1997 was buoyed, which makes entry fairly straightforward. It is possible to pass either side of Pickens Island. Once past the green buoy, favour the Hamilton Island side as you pass the jetty.

Anchorage

Once inside, anchor anywhere in 3 to 4 fms. The harbour provides very good shelter.

Several of the cabins were occupied in 1997, but the fish plant at the W end of Hamilton Island appeared to have been closed for some time.


NORTH STAG ISLANDS

54°05' N 57°13' W
Chart 5134 Approaches to Cartwright, etc

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch III, p 195
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 12.178

Variation: 26°W (14 E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 6 ft

General

The North Stag Islands are situated off North Strand (the Vikings' Wonder Strand) and provide an anchorage between the two islands on the W side. This gives good shelter, except with winds in the W quadrant.

Approach

The approach N or S of the islands is straightforward if the shore is not approached too closely. The channel between the islands has several islets and rocks in it, and the Pilot claims that there is a channel carrying 6 ft through these, but this was not investigated.

Anchorage

We anchored as shown on the sketch chart, in 20 ft.

On the N island, a short way inland adjacent to the anchorage, we found what appeared to be old try pot furnaces.






EDWARDS HARBOUR

54º23' N 57º15' W
Chart 5135(M) Approaches to Hamilton Inlet, etc


Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch IV, p 201
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 13.68

Variation: 27°W (14' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 7 ft

General

Edwards Harbour is a land-locked, keyhole harbour, with a narrow entrance. Use the excellent sketch chart by Jim Watson in the CCA Cruising Guide to the Labrador to enter.

Approach

The entrance is narrow (approximately 30 yds wide) but clear of dangers. There are two rocks to avoid inside the harbour. The first is not far in from the entrance and situated nearly mid-channel. It is a rocky ledge, covered with kelp and is difficult or impossible to see from the surface. The second rock is well into the harbour and dries 3 ft. It is a bald dome of light-coloured granite and when covered, shows as a pale patch in good light.

We passed E of both rocks without difficulty, but there appear to be several rocky ledges extending from the E shore in the vicinity of the first rock, which constrict the channel. The channel to the W of the first rock appears to be deeper and wider than the one to the E, but has a lot more kelp, which makes spotting ledges difficult.

Anchorage

We anchored in 18 ft, sand and weed, beyond the second rock. Holding appeared to be good. Protection is total.
INDIAN HARBOUR

54°27' N 57°13' W
Charts: 5042(M) Cut Throat Island to Quaker Hat; 5135(M) Approaches to Hamilton Inlet, etc

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch IV, p 201
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 13.68

Variation: 27°W (14' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 7 ft


General

Indian Harbour lies between Indian Island and Mundy Island, at the N side of Groswater Bay.


Approach

The approach from the S is fairly straightforward and it is possible to pass either side of Indian Island. Approaching from the N is more complicated, with many islands, islets and shoals – however, the smaller scale chart, 5135, should be adequate.

Anchorage

We anchored as shown on the sketch chart, in 16 ft. The anchorage is very sheltered except in winds from the E and the Pilot warns of a large swell entering the harbour in SE gales. There are several other anchorages to choose from, close by.

The fishing station here seems to have died out, with the few cabins deserted in 1997. There did however, appear to be activity on the Smokey Tickle side of Mundy Island. The foundations of the Grenfell hospital can still be seen on Indian Island.








GRAVE BAY, WEBECK HARBOUR

54°53.7' N 58°03.2' W
Chart 5044(M) Cape Harrison to Dog Islands

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch V, p 222
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 14.22
Cruising Guide to the Labrador C-100

Variation: 29°W (15' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 7 ft


General

Webeck Harbour is too open to be safe in heavy weather, but is a useful anchorage in settled conditions.

Approach and anchorage

Grave Bay is a shallow, sandy cove on the S shore of Webeck Harbour. The bottom is flat and level sand, but has a depth of only 4 ft 6 ins at low water springs. Swinging room inside the cove is restricted by at least one boulder, standing 1 to 2 ft above the otherwise level bottom.

Iron Bark, with 5 ft of draught, grounded on hard sand at low water springs, then bounced off a boulder several times, after lifting off with the tide. The anchorage is only really usable by a shoal draught vessel, preferably on a neap tide. Unfortunately, there is no other good anchorage within easy reach.

The cabins in Grave Bay are derelict.






STRAWBERRY HARBOUR

55°08.5' N 59°04.5' W
Chart 5045(M) Dog Islands to Cape Makkovik

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch V, p 226
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 14.30
Cruising Guide to the Labrador D-20

Variation: 29°W (15 E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 7 ft

General

Strawberry Harbour is at the entrance to Makkovik Bay, 11 M from Makkovik. It has excellent protection with good holding, in attractive surroundings.


Approach

From the 'Route Usually Followed', steer for Strawberry Head, which is distinctive, until the harbour entrance can be made out. Keep mid-channel between the islet and the rock on the NW side of the entrance, and the headland forming the E side of the harbour. The rock off the islet dries 6 ft and is almost always visible. The 1.2m (4 ft) patch, shown in the entrance to Strawberry Harbour on chart 5045, is less than 25 yds offshore, and not a danger.

Anchorage

Anchor in the pool immediately beyond the entrance headlands, in 18 to 24 ft, sandy mud and weed. Good holding. There is adequate swinging room, but if entering under sail, be prepared to use the anchor to stop the vessel, because there is little room to round up in the anchorage.

The cabins ashore are derelict.






MAKKOVIK BAY

55º05' N 59º10 W
Chart 5045(M) Dog Islands to Cape Makkovik

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch V, p 226
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 14.30
Cruising Guide to the Labrador D-20

Variation: 29°W (15' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 7 ft


Anchorage

The most convenient anchorage off the town is 80 to 100 yards SE of the fishing company's travel-lift pen, in 24 ft. Good holding.

Tie the dinghy to the N face of the travel-lift pen, at one of the ladders.

The anchorage at Big Island is on the shelf between Northwest Point and Southwest Point. The shelf edge is irregular and depths drop off quickly at its edge. The best berth seems to be off the middle of 3 beaches on the SW side of Big Island, in 24 to 30 ft, stiff grey mud and stones. Good holding.
BLIND MUGFORD TICKLE

55°20' N 59°45' W
Charts: 5046(M) Cape Makkovik to Winsor Harbour I, 5047(M), Winsor Harbour I to Kikkertaksoak I

Cruising Guide to the Labrador D-40

Variation: 27°W (14 E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 7 ft


Approach

Approaching from the E, stay mid-channel between the drying rocks on the E side of Blind Mugford Tickle and the islands on the W side. If the drying rocks are not visible, favour the W side of the channel because the islands are steep-to.

When approaching from N via Arichat Tickle, keep to the E side of the channel at its narrowest part, because there are two uncharted rocks off the headland on the W side. The drying rock at the S end of Arichat Tickle should normally show. Pass W of it, because the E side is encumbered by ledges.

Anchorage

The anchorage is N of the drying rocks that form the E side of Blind Mugford Tickle. The anchorage is constricted by foul ground extending 60 yds N of the N drying rock and by a 3 ft patch 70 yds further N.

Once 80 to 90 yds past the N of the three drying rocks, turn E to pass through the 70 yd wide gap between the 3 ft patch and the foul ground to the S. Once past the 3 ft patch, anchor in 14 ft, sand and weed. Good holding with adequate, but restricted swinging room. There is good protection from all directions except the S.

The cabin ashore appeared to have been abandoned for some time.








Sunday, 22 April 2007

HOPEDALE


55°27' N 60°13' W
Chart 5047(M), Winsor Harbour Is to Kikkertaksoak Is

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch V, p 341
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 14.48, 14,59
Cruising Guide to the Labrador D-50

Variation: 27°W (14' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 7ft


General


Hopedale is a small settlement with a largely Inuit population.

Approach

The approach is straightforward; entering the harbour, keep close N of the green buoy.

Anchorage

We anchored to the N of the red buoy, E of the drying reef, in 23 ft. There are several moorings in the area.

A small fish plant (packing fresh Arctic char, which is air-freighted out) at the government wharf, supplied us with fresh water.

A reasonably large supermarket is situated at the N end of the town, near to the RCMP post. The Lodge, near to the E jetty has a public telephone. The settlement has a post office and a clinic.

One of the Moravian mission buildings was being renovated in 1997, to display their extensive collection of artefacts and old photographs, which are well worth viewing.

A gravel airstrip has regular flights to Goose Bay and Nain. The coastal passage steamer calls every 2 weeks.



HOPEDALE FROM THE ANCHORAGE




HOPEDALE



55°27' N 60°13' W

Chart 5047(M), Winsor Harbour Is to Kikkertaksoak Is


Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch V, p 341

Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 14.48, 14,59

Cruising Guide to the Labrador D-50


Variation: 27°W (14' E) (1997)

Spring Range approximately 7ft



General


Hopedale is a small settlement with a largely Inuit population.


Approach


The approach is straightforward; entering the harbour, keep close N of the green buoy.


Anchorage


We anchored to the N of the red buoy, E of the drying reef, in 23 ft. There are several moorings in the area.


A small fish plant (packing fresh Arctic char, which is air-freighted out) at the government wharf, supplied us with fresh water.


A reasonably large supermarket is situated at the N end of the town, near to the RCMP post. The Lodge, near to the E jetty has a public telephone. The settlement has a post office and a clinic.


One of the Moravian mission buildings was being renovated in 1997, to display their extensive collection of artefacts and old photographs, which are well worth viewing.


A gravel airstrip has regular flights to Goose Bay and Nain. The coastal passage steamer calls every 2 weeks.







Friday, 20 April 2007

MULTA COVE


5541.5' N 6024' W

Chart 5047(M)


Variation: 28W (10' E) (1997)

Spring Range approximately 7 ft


General


This small cove is just off the route from Hopedale to Windy Tickle. It is approximately 2 M W of Multa Island.


Approach


The approach is straightforward.


Anchorage


We anchored in 26 ft, towards the S side of the cove. The head of the cove dries out. Be careful to check your swinging room, as there are rocks at the edge of the drying area. There is shelter except from the NE quadrant.


The anchorage is in an attractive setting, with a large stream entering the cove at the N end.






NEWFOUNDLAND HARBOUR


55°54' N 60°42' W
Chart 5048(M)
, Cape Harrington to Kidlit Islands

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch V, p 245
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 14.77
Variation: 29°W (10' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 7 ft
General
Newfoundland Harbour lies on the E side of Ukasiksalik Island, near Davis Inlet. The harbour provides good shelter, except from the SE.
Anchorage
We approached from the N of the harbour, W of the island 42 m high, shown on the chart. We could see no sign of the isolated islet shown close S of the 42 m sounding.
Anchorage was found in 13 ft, in the position shown on the sketch chart.






TIKIGATSIAK COVE


56°03.2 N 61°15.5 W
Chart 5049(M): Davis Inlet to Seniartlit Islands

Variation: 29°W (10' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 7 ft

General

This unnamed cove on Tikigatsiak Peninsula, off Tom Gears Run, is totally protected from all winds, in attractive surroundings.

Approach

From Tom Gears Run, steer SW to pass between the two lines of drying rocks and skerries off Tikigatsiak Peninsula. This channel is 500 yds wide and appears to be free of dangers. Cross the outer bay and round the rocky headland on the E side of the entrance to the inner cove, keeping 20 to 25 yds off the headland. The least depth at low water neaps was 15 ft, so there should be greater than 2 fms at low water springs.

Anchorage

Anchor in the inner pool in 30 to 36 feet, mud, with ample swinging room and excellent holding. This cove is protected from all wind directions. The surrounding hills are fairly low, so the bay should not be subjected to blow-me-downs.

Remarks
We saw a black fox and numerous mosquitoes. This bay offers complete protection in an attractive setting and is well worth a visit.






KANGEKLUKTANNA BAY


56° 04' N 61°13 'W

Chart 5049(M): Cruising guide to the Labrador E-5

Variation: 29°W (10' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 7 ft

General

Kangekluktanna Bay is on the E side of Tom Gear's Run and is a very attractive anchorage, which would only be exposed in strong W or SW winds.

Approach

Approach along Tom Gear's Run. The bay is clean and wide enough to tack in, if needs be.

Anchorage

We anchored in 25 ft, in the NE arm.

Remarks

The slopes surrounding the Bay are lightly wooded and on a clear day, the views from the top of the hill, to the E, are superb.

When visited, this bay had enormous quantities of mosquitoes.






BRIDGES PASSAGE

56°26.5’ N 61°31' W
Chart: 4748 Nain and Approaches

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay, ch V, p 276
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 14.101

Variation: 29°W (11' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 7 ft

General

Approximately 1 M WSW of Rain Island, at the E entrance to the Bridges Passage, there is an anchorage sheltered from all winds except those from the SW quadrant.

Approach

The approach is the same as that for the Bridges Passage, which is straightforward from the E. From the W, the deepest water will be found by favouring the Rain Island side of the passage.

Anchorage

We anchored approximately 2 cables N of the islet in 21 ft.

Remarks

This anchorage may well be useful if arriving at the Bridges Passage late at night, with a contrary tide.





KAUK HARBOUR




56°30’ N 61°42’ W
Chart: 4748 Nain and Approaches

Canadian Pilot: Labrador and Hudson Bay. ch V, p 256
Admiralty Pilot 50: Newfoundland and Labrador, 14.102
Cruising Guide to the Labrador E-15

Variation: 29°W (11' E) (1997)
Spring Range approximately 7 ft

General

Kauk Harbour provides a very sheltered, landlocked basin only a short distance from Nain.

Approach

The approach from the N is straightforward, but from the Bridges Passage, care must be taken to avoid Jenk's Rock and the dangers to the W of it, as well as the drying rock W of Glasis Point. The chart is accurate.

The drying rock in the outer basin is difficult to see or invisible, at high water, but shows in good light at half tide or less. It did not uncover at low water neaps, so is probably never very prominent.

Anchorage

Anchor in the inner basin in front of the deserted lodge, in 30 to 36 ft, mud and weed. Apparently good holding. The anchorage is sheltered from all directions.

Remarks

A path from the NW side of the inner basin, by the waterfall, leads to Nain. It is reputedly an hour's walk.

There are two cabins ashore. A walk to the top of Kauk Bluff reveals excellent views and is well worthwhile. It may be a little difficult to get over to this island at high water.