Badger

Badger

Iron Bark II

Iron Bark II

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I first crossed the Atlantic in 1975 on 'Stormalong', a 28ft Wharram-designed catamaran. Back in the UK, Pete and I bought an ex 6-metre racing yacht, 'Sheila', living on her for 4 years. Wanting to do more and go further, we built 'Badger' - the best boat in the world - sailing her 110,000 miles, to the Arctic and the Antarctic, around the Atlantic North and South and into the Baltic. She had junk rig - the only rig I will ever now cruise with. Pete wanted to build a 38 ft junk-rigged catamaran, 'China Moon' - which he designed. But before the project was finished, we went our separate ways. A year later I joined Trevor Robertson aboard his 35ft 'Iron Bark'. We explored the Canadian Maritimes, crossed the Atlantic twice, wintered in Greenland and crossed the Pacific to Australia and New Zealand. I fell in love with NZ and jumping ship, bought my own boat while Trevor carried on voyaging. I put a junk rig onto ‘Fantail’ and, having decided that N Island offered better cruising opportunities than S Island, sailed up there in 2012. Looking for a boat to see me out, I built the 26ft 'FanShi' and now live on board her, pottering about, generally around the Bay of Islands.
Showing posts with label Stromness Bay. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stromness Bay. Show all posts

Sunday, 23 February 2025

HUSVIK HARBOUR (STROMNESS BAY)


Stromness Bay is the next bay N of Cumberland Bay. It has three arms with a whaling station at the head of each bay.

HUSVIK HARBOUR

54o11'S 36o42'W
Chart 3589, Approaches to Leith, Stromness and Husvik Harbours


The southernmost arm of Stromness Bay contains Husvik Harbour. The centre of the bay is a mass of kelp with the Bar Rocks marking the S end. The main channel to the S of the Bar Rocks is the more straightforward. There is also a passage along the N shore, but there is some kelp here.

Suitable depths for anchoring will be found at the head of the bay. In 1995, the wooden pier was in a very poor state, but it was possible to go alongside the N side. About midway along, there was a length of dock with an extra plank to make fending off possible. Prudence would dictate laying out an anchor to the N, in order to be able to pull away from the jetty in winds from this quadrant. The S side of the pier has a railway line; walking along this was the safest way to get ashore, but be very careful when using the jetty because it has many loose, missing and rotten planks. When visited, a couple of terns were nesting on the dock. A very sharp lookout should be kept if there are obviously agitated birds about, because neither the egg nor the chick would be easily seen.

The remains of a whaling station are in the usual ruined and vandalised state. 


Of particular interest is the old whale catcher, Karrakatta, high and dry on the beach: she was used as a steam plant for many years.


BAS used to have a summer-only field station at Husvik, with four staff.  They lived in the house at the S end of the factory. If this staion is still operating, it would be courteous to contact them to avoid interfering with any of their projects or experiments, when ashore. Depending on their workload, offers of hospitality would probably be much appreciated.

Good walking can be enjoyed in the area. 


A three-hour walk, S up the Olsen Valley, takes you to Carlita Bay or the Neumayer Glacier. 



It is possible to walk up the Karrakatta Valley and over to Fortuna Bay, as well as round to Stromness and Leith Harbours.


HUSVIK HARBOUR, LOOKING SE



   ALERT COVE, FROM THE S




STROMNESS HARBOUR (STROMNESS BAY)

 
54o09'S 36o42'W
Chart 3589, Approaches to Leith, Stromness and Husvik Harbours.


Stromness Harbour from Grass Island
Stromness is the site of a whaling station, which was latterly used as a ship repair facility for the whaling fleets in the area. 


In 1995, the main wharf was in a reasonable state of repair and had some newish, black rubber ship fendering in places. There is a depth of 6m alongside.

Curlew reported that they often lie between the main dock and the one to the S of it, with lines to each. It is shallow enough to anchor between the docks until the boat can be tied up.

The bottom drops away sharply from the dock to over 30m, so it would seem impractical to lay out an anchor to hold the vessel off. Although Grass Island protects the bay from the E, there is still a 1½ mile fetch, and it would probably be very uncomfortable alongside in a strong E'ly blow.

The station is of interest, but it is falling down and has been subject to vandalism. 


The Manager's Villa at the S end of the station, is where Shackleton and his companions arrived after crossing the island. A plaque to commemorate this has been placed outside the house on the land side.

There are walks to Husvik and Leith and a longer one over the col to Fortuna Bay.

The Pilot warns of very strong winds during offshore gales. A large, yellow mooring buoy maintained by the Admiralty, lies in the bay.

If obtaining water from the stream it is advisable to go well up above the tanks, which may be leaking and polluting the water.


STROMNESS HARBOUR – THE MAIN WHARF, LOOKING N



Friday, 21 February 2025

LEITH HARBOUR (STROMNESS BAY)


54o08'S 36o 41'W
Chart 3589, Approaches to Leith, Stromness and Husvik Harbours


This was another whaling station, but it was more famous in recent years as the site of the start of the Falklands Conflict.  In 1982, an Argentine commercial salvage operation was used to disguise the arrival of military personnel, who eventually invaded the island. 


A view of Leith Harbour from Grass Island


As a consequence of the salvage work (which was never completed) there is a huge pile of rusting machinery and parts by the main dock. Much more is scattered about making this station probably the worst eyesore on the island, which is saying a lot. 


While many of the buildings are still standing, time and vandalism have taken their usual toll.

If you intend to stay for several days, it is possible to moor in a small basin a short distance NW of the main dock. This offers good protection from the sea from all quarters. The NW corner of the basin is shoal with the remains of a small wooden boat showing at low water. The depth at the SE end is not known, but is believed to be sufficient for most yachts. NW winds can blow here with extreme violence. Some swell may be experienced in the basin.


LEITH HARBOUR, SMALL BOAT BASIN - LOOKING E

The main dock is still in reasonable condition, with heavy fendering on the SE side which has a depth of 6.5m alongside. A dense patch of kelp exists between the shore and the SE side of the jetty, which makes it advisable to approach from the NE.

A yellow mooring buoy is laid and maintained by the Admiralty, in Leith Harbour, for the use of ships.


LEITH HARBOUR, THE MAIN JETTY – LOOKING NE




GRASS ISLAND (STROMNESS BAY)

 
54o09'S 36o40'W
Chart 3589, Approaches to Leith, Stromness and Husvik Harbours


This island guards the entrance to Stromness Harbour. On the E side of the island is an anchorage giving good shelter from the SW through W to N, without the fierce squalls that apparently affect Stromness Harbour itself, in W'ly gales. It is, however, wide open to the E.

Anchor in about 12m in a patch clear of kelp. It is possible to land on the beach to the W of the anchorage.

The old lighthouse building on the E point of the island is still in quite good condition.


GRASS ISLAND, LOOKING S







CAPE SAUNDERS BAY (STROMNESS BAY)

 
54o08'S 36o39'W
Chart 3589, Approaches to Stromness and Cumberland Bays


About ½ mile SW of Cape Saunders is an unnamed bay, offering a good anchorage with shelter from the N and W.

If coming from Leith or Stromness Harbours, it is possible to pass inside Black Rocks, but care should be taken to avoid the drying rock 1½ cables W of the western islet. There is plenty of room to tack through the centre of the channel. Note that there is a drying rock, shown on the chart, 2 cables S of the headland to the W of Cape Saunders Bay, which should also be avoided.

Anchor near the centre of the bay in 10m, in a patch clear of kelp. The bottom is fine sand, with kelp.


CAPE SAUNDERS BAY, LOOKING NW