ANCHORAGES

IN

SOUTH GEORGIA

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction

South Georgia

King Edward Cove

Cumberland West Bay:                        Maiviken

                                                                 Carlita Bay

                                                                 Jason Harbour

                                                                 Allen Bay

Stromness Bay:                                     Husvik Harbour

                                                                 Stromness Harbour

                                                                 Leith Harbour

                                                                 Grass Island

                                                                 Cape Saunders Bay

Hercules Bay

Fortuna Bay:                                       Whistle Cove

                                                                 Small Bay

                                                                 Anchorage Bay

                                                                 Illusion Cove

Blue Whale Harbour

Cook Bay:                                       Elephant Lagoon

                                                                 Prince Olav Harbour

Bay of Islands:                                Beckmann Fjord

                                                                 Prion Island

                                                                 Albatross Island

                                                                 Salisbury Plain

                                                                 Jock Cove

                                                                 Camp Bay

                                                                 Rosita Harbour

                                                                 Koppervik

Sitka Bay

Right Whale Bay:                            Barber Cove

                                                                 Cairns Cove

Elsehul

Bird Island:                                    Bird Sound

                                                                 Jordan Cove

SW Coast:                                       Undine Harbour

                                                                 Coal Harbour

                                                                 Wilson Harbour

                                                                 Saddle Island Passage

                                                                 Ken Pounder Bay

Cheapman Bay

King Haakon Bay

Ebensen Bay

Larsen Harbour

Parece Buena Cove

Cooper Sound:                                     Cooper Bay (The Lagoon and 
                                                                       Inner Bay)

Wirik Bay

Gold Harbour

Bjornstadt Bay

Moltke Harbour

Harcourt Island

St Andrew's Bay

Ocean Harbour

Godthul

Cobbler's Cove

INTRODUCTION

The following notes on anchorages in South Georgia were made assembled during a cruise made to the island in the summer of 1995. At the time I was sailing aboard Badger, with Pete Hill. We compiled notes and chartlets for the Royal Cruising Club, but I now want this information to be available to more people and for this reason am slowly incorporating them into this blog. One day, I hope, Trevor and I will sail to South Georgia and perhaps enlarge on this work.

The information that follows is generally unavailable from any other source. While the UK Admiralty Antarctic Pilot is much more useful than is generally the case with such Pilots, most of the anchorages described below would get no more than a brief mention. The official charts are not very detailed – indeed, the ones we used were described at ‘Preliminary charts’ – but even modern, metric ones, drawn after the Falklands Conflict will, perhaps, lack some of the information which the sketches provide.

While publishing this information will encourage people to go to South Georgia, I should point out that this is not something that should be undertaken lightly. Conditions in the Southern Ocean can be extreme, as anyone who has read Gerry Clark's book, The ‘Totorore’ Voyage, will appreciate. It provides some very sobering accounts of how bad such sailing can be and anyone interested in cruising South Georgia should certainly read this book first. Anyone sailing in these waters must be totally self-sufficient and prepared to extricate themselves from any eventuality. There are no rescue services and help should neither be sought nor expected from the Authorities in Grytviken. It should be remembered that it is impossible to replenish both stores and fuel.

As well as being meticulously prepared for sailing in these latitudes, a yacht’s ground tackle must be heavy and reliable. Hurricane force winds in apparently sheltered anchorages are not uncommon and, indeed, not one of the following anchorages could fairly be described as perfectly sheltered from all directions. Adequate ground tackle that will cope with these conditions, should be carried. This will mean that the anchors and chain will seem ridiculously oversized for general cruising. Your life may well depend on it.

Weather conditions can change with extreme rapidity and a barograph is an enormously useful aid to weather forecasting.

The accuracy of available charts should not be relied upon. A number of rocks and shoals are unmarked and there are also large discrepancies in many areas between the position as indicated and that obtained by GPS.

The sketch charts included in these notes are just that. They were drawn with reference to actual features and the (old) Admiralty charts that we had on board. While I hope that they show all the pertinent information, they should be treated with caution. In anticipation of the metrication of the relevant charts, soundings are given in metres, to an approximate mean low water springs level. Heights are also in metres.

Nearly all the anchorages are illustrated with a photograph, showing Badger. This provides a scale and shows exactly where we dropped our hook. It is also a memento to this fine, little ship.

Acknowledgements

The following people extended help and advice to us: Tim and Pauline Carr, Pat and Sarah Lurcock, Rick, skipper of the Abel-J, Russ Manning, Sally and Jérôme Poncet.

Suggested Reading

Antarctic Oasis Tim and Pauline Carr

Ice Bird David Lewis ISBN 0-00-211737-1

Log Book for Grace Robert Murphy

‘Mischief’ Goes South H W Tilman ISBN 0-906371-22-8

Seabirds Peter Harrison ISBN 0-395-33253-2

Southern Ocean Cruising Sally & Jérôme Poncet

The ‘Totorore’ Voyage Gerry Clark ISBN 0-7126-2438-4

The Antarctic Pilot H M Admiralty

The Great Antarctic Rescue Frank A Worsley

The Island of South Georgia R Headland ISBN 0-521-42474-7

Wildlife of the Falkland Islands

and South Georgia Ian J Strange ISBN 0-00-219839-8

Neumayer Bay and The Three Brothers, Cumberland West Bay

The island of South Georgia lies between latitudes 53^o56'S and 54^o55'S and longitudes 34^o45'W and 38^o15'W. It is very mountainous and over half of its area is permanently covered in ice and snow. The island lies within the Antarctic Convergence, which accounts for the severity of the weather. South Georgia is a British Possession.

The first recorded sighting of the island was by Antoine de la Roche, a London merchant, in 1675, but it wasn’t until 1775 that anyone landed ashore to explore. Captain James Cook carried this out on his second voyage of discovery.

Exploitation of South Georgia started in 1786, with the killing of fur seals. The sealing was so extensive that by 1802 stocks had become too depleted to make their continued hunting viable.

The next animals to be exploited were the whales. This period lasted from 1904 until 1966; again, this was discontinued when the animals were almost wiped out.

In 1982, South Georgia was invaded by Argentina at the start of the Falklands Conflict, but was retaken a few weeks later. A result of this was that for the next 20 years, a British garrison was maintained in Grytviken. Thankfully, this is no longer the case and members of the British Antarctic Survey have taken their place.

Administration

The Governor of the Falkland Islands usually holds the post of Commissioner for South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands, although they are administered separately.

Before visiting South Georgia, permission should first be obtained from the Commissioner, by writing to him, enclosing a rough itinerary and basic details of the boat and crew. This is usually a perfectly straightforward business for a cruising yacht. The address is as follows: The Commissioner for South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands, Government House, Stanley, Falkland Islands, South Atlantic, via London.

If you are unable to apply in advance, then the boat should proceed directly to King Edward Point, where permission to cruise the island may be sought through the Marine Officer.

There is an entry charge, sufficiently steep to amount almost to a ‘fine’, of £150 (info as at 2007), payable to the Marine Officer on arrival. Although a British cheque was accepted in payment, it would be wise to have the correct amount in cash.

For more information, visit www.sgisland.org.

I believe that there is some effort made to control movement of visitors and restrict them from visiting the old whaling stations. Ostensibly this is for their own safety, but one wonders if it is not simply that the British Government is rightly ashamed of allowing such appalling pollution to exist in what should be a pristine environment. While the old stations are interesting in their way, they stand as a telling monument to greed, exploitation and environmental carelessness, which is almost criminal in its extent.

Anchorages

When the wind around South Georgia reaches gale force and above, it can result in williwaws, which can reach hurricane force, even in an apparently snug harbour, due to the turbulence produced as the wind passes over the jagged mountain landscape. In the following notes, any reference to shelter refers to that protection given from the sea. As far as I know, every anchorage is subject to violent squalls in certain circumstances.

The best weather is to found on the so-called ‘Sunshine Coast’ between Cooper Sound and the Bay of Islands. The NW and SE tips of the island suffer from a greater amount of overcast and the weather is generally unsettled. The SW coast is open to the prevailing winds and is very exposed with few good anchorages – this coast should be treated with the greatest respect.

Pilot and Charts

South Georgia is covered in the Antarctic Pilot, published by H M Admiralty. The following charts are also available from the Admiralty:

Chart No 3585 Harbours and Anchorages in South Georgia

Chart No 3587 Harbours and Anchorages in South Georgia

Chart No 3588 Approaches to Stromness and Cumberland Bays

Chart No 3596 Approaches to South Georgia

Chart No 3597 South Georgia

This is the up-to-date list (2007), but the following notes refer to the older charts, which were on board Badger when we cruised the island. There are fewer charts published for South Georgia than was once the case and it would be worth getting hold of superseded, second-hand charts, if possible. As is so often the case, the old imperial charts show much more detail than the new metric ones.

Fur Seals

The fur seal population has increased dramatically in the last few years and is now believed to be back to at least its pre-sealing levels on the Island. Because of this, many of the beaches are packed with fur seals and these can make trips ashore harrassing and occasionally hair-raising. The worst time is in the breeding season, which is from October to early January, when the males, in particular, are very aggressive. Unless you have previous experience, your first trips ashore can be alarming.

From experience, a bodger, a stick of at least four feet such as a boathook or an oar, should be carried by each person. Fur seals will often make what appears to be an attack, but pointing the bodger at them usually halts them and a light tap under the chin will deter the more persistent. It is unnecessary to use force. You can literally stumble over fur seals amazingly far up the hills, where they can lie hidden in tussac grass. If you come across one suddenly, you will both get a fright and the animal’s response is, not unnaturally, quite aggressive.

The first time you go ashore, don’t be too ambitious and concentrate on getting used to the seals and their behaviour. After a while, you will become more blasé and experienced people almost ignore them. After the breeding season, they become much less aggressive, but are still very inquisitive. The pups, in particular, can be quite enchanting as they come charging out to meet the dinghy when you row ashore.

Sites of Special Scientific Interest and Specially Protected Area

There are two SSSIs and one SPA in South Georgia, ie Bird and Annenkov Islands and Cooper Island. Full details of these areas will be found in Sally and Jérôme Poncet's booklet, Southern Ocean Cruising.

Bases

There are two bases maintained by BAS. Bird Island has a year-round base with three people overwintering and as many as eight people there during the summer. The other site is at Grytviken.

KING EDWARD COVE

54o16'S 36o30'W

Chart 3589, Plan of King Edward Cove

General

King Edward Cove is in Cumberland East Bay, about half way along the NE coast of South Georgia. The administrative centre is at King Edward Point at the entrance to the cove. At the head of the bay is the disused whaling station of Grytviken.

Being the administrative centre of the island, King Edward Cove should be the first stop in South Georgia. The Marine Officer will call once the boat is secured and deal with the formalities.

Anchorage

Yachts normally berth at Grytviken alongside one of the wooden docks, which are in a poor state of repair. The best place, however, is alongside the old whale catcher, Petrel, at the S end of the whaling station, which, in the summer of 1994-95 was holed and resting on the bottom. This berth was used by Tim and Pauline Carr on Curlew for several years, summer and winter. Tie up alongside with the bow facing offshore and take a breast line ashore to the wooden jetty to the N. This will enable you to haul off Petrel in the case of an E wind and to ride out a blow in relative comfort. There is a depth of 3m, amidships, alongside Petrel.

The second choice is to tie up in the bight of the old plan, between the two piers and alongside the N one. Tie up facing E (offshore) and take a breast rope ashore to the S jetty (in poor condition), again to enable you to pull off in an E wind.

A third option is to tie up alongside either of the two wooden docks which have approximately 3m depth. It is advisable to set an anchor offshore, either to pull the boat off the pier in an E'ly or to assist in leaving the jetty in an E blow when it may well be untenable alongside.

The dock at King Edward Point has a depth alongside of 6m, but it is inadvisable to remain there except in settled weather. Even with a wind out of the E, the swell makes it uncomfortable for a yacht. During E'ly winds, a sheltered anchorage will be found in the bight of King Edward Point, in a depth of 8m, clear of the kelp.

There is an excellent museum in the old Manager's House at Grytviken. It has a small shop selling postcards and souvenirs.

Water is obtainable from the stream inland of Petrel, with a grassy bank giving easy access. The big guano shed alongside the stream provides a good place to dry laundry. Water can also be obtained from a pipe near the shore, close to the Museum.

King Edward Point has a post office. Mail is delivered by air at intervals of approximately two weeks. This is air-dropped into the Cove by an RAF aeroplane, sent from the Falklands. Surface mail and outgoing mail is sent via the supply ship at intervals of about two months. Incoming airmail should normally take around one month from Great Britain. South Georgia stamps with the King Edward Point frank are regarded as collectors' items.

There are no other facilities on South Georgia.

The pecked line, on the sketch chart shows some good walks from Grytviken.

Sir Ernest Shackleton died of a heart attack on board the Quest at Grytviken, in 1922. The conspicuous white cross above King Edward Point is his Memorial. He is buried in the graveyard to the S of Grytviken.

CUMBERLAND WEST BAY

This is a large bay, with three glaciers at its head, namely the Neumayer, Geike and Lyell Glaciers. Small pieces of ice are often observed drifting out of the bay, most of which come from the Neumayer Glacier, the largest of the three.

MAIVIKEN

54o14'S 36o30'W
Chart 3589, Maiviken

General

Situated at the southern entrance to Cumberland West Bay, Maiviken is a sheltered anchorage. The best protection is to be found in the N part of the bay.

Anchorage

Anchor N of George Rock, in 4m, where it will be possible to find a patch that is clear of kelp.

On the two occasions that this anchorage was used by Badger, no swell or ice was encountered.

It is possible to pass either side of George Rock. The W passage is wider, but has more kelp than the one to the E.

Half way down the W shore, in Alert Cove, there is an old sealers' cave a short way back from the shingle beach.

A refuge cave with emergency supplies was situated in the SE corner of the bay, when we visited. This was stocked and used by the garrison at King Edward Point. It is a 2 mile walk from the cave to Grytviken along the Bore Valley.

Maiviken, looking north with George Rocks astern of 'Badger'

JASON HARBOUR

54o12'S 36o35'W
Chart 3589, Jason Harbour

General





Badger visited Jason Harbour with the intention of anchoring in the Boat Harbour, but it was found to be completely filled with ice. The possibility of bringing up near Hut Point was also investigated, but depths of 18m were found, close up to the beach.



Apparently, the Boat Harbour is usually clear of ice.

CARLITA BAY

(Horseshoe Bay on old charts)

54^o14'S 36^o39'W

Chart 3589, Approaches to Stromness and Cumberland Bays

General

During the whaling era, the Postman delivered the mail to the stations in Stromness Bay by rowing across Cumberland West Bay from Maiviken to Carlita Bay, and then walking over the col to Husvik and on to the other two stations. At one time, there was a Postman's refuge hut, but this has now gone. Instead there is a newer hut, built by BAS in the early 60's. It is used as a refuge hut by the Garrison and is stocked with emergency supplies. When we visited in 1995, the hut had been damaged by storms with the floor, walls and roof all having been displaced from one another. Unless it is repaired, it will probably not last long.

Approach

The approach to Carlita Bay might well necessitate a certain amount of dodging around ice calved from the Neumayer Glacier.

Anchorage

Anchorage was found off the hut, in 4m, mud with no kelp. The bay is well sheltered from the W through N to NE. On the occasion of Badger's visit, there was quite a lot of ice in the anchorage and because of this, it would not be advisable to leave a yacht unattended or to anchor overnight in this bay.

From Carlita Bay, it is a fairly easy 2½ to 3 hour walk to Husvik. A good view of the Neumayer Glacier can be obtained by climbing the hill to the W of the bay.

ALLEN BAY

54^o11'S 36^o32'W

Chart 3589, Approaches to Stromness and Cumberland Bays

Anchorage

An anchorage was found in the cove at the W side of this bay, in 6.5m in a clear patch among the kelp. It is sheltered from the SW through W to N.

When we entered, the cove was almost ice free, but a few hours later, a bergy bit drifted in and threatened Badger's tranquillity. An alternative anchorage in Maiviken was chosen for the night.

STROMNESS BAY

This is the next bay N of Cumberland Bay. It has three arms with a whaling station at the head of each bay.

HUSVIK HARBOUR

54^o11'S 36^o42'W

Chart 3589, Approaches to Leith, Stromness and Husvik Harbours

The southernmost arm of Stromness Bay contains Husvik Harbour. The centre of the bay is a mass of kelp with the Bar Rocks marking the S end. The main channel to the S of the Bar Rocks is the more straightforward. There is also a passage along the N shore, but there is some kelp here.

Suitable depths for anchoring will be found at the head of the bay. In 1995, the wooden pier is in a very poor state, but it was possible to go alongside the N side. About midway along, there was a length of dock with an extra plank to make fending off possible. Prudence would dictate laying out an anchor to the N, in order to be able to pull away from the jetty in winds from this quadrant. The S side of the pier has a railway line; walking along this was the safest way to get ashore, but be very careful when using the jetty because it has many loose, missing and rotten planks. When visited, a couple of terns were nesting on the dock. A very sharp lookout should be kept if there are obviously agitated birds about, because neither the egg nor the chick would be easily seen.

The remains of a whaling station are here, in the usual ruined and vandalised state. Of particular interest is the old whale catcher, Karrakatta, high and dry on the beach: she was used as a steam plant for many years.

BAS used to have a summer-only field station at Husvik, with four staff. They lived in the house at the S end of the factory. If this staion is still operating, It would be courteous to contact them to avoid interfering with any of their projects or experiments, when ashore. Depending on their workload, offers of hospitality would probably be much appreciated.

Good walking can be enjoyed in the area. A three -our walk, S up the Olsen Valley, takes you to Carlita Bay or the Neumayer Glacier. It is possible to walk up the Karrakatta Valley and over to Fortuna Bay, as well as round to Stromness and Leith Harbours.

STROMNESS HARBOUR

54^o09'S 36^o42'W
Chart 3589, Approaches to Leith, Stromness and Husvik Harbours

General

My apologies for the photograph, which has come out in black and white. This happened during the scanning process and I no longer have the colour original.

Stromness is the site of a whaling station, which was latterly used as a ship repair facility for the whaling fleets in the area. In 1995, the main wharf was in a reasonable state of repair and had some newish, black rubber ship fendering in places. There is a depth of 6m alongside.

Anchorage

Curlew reported that they often lie between the main dock and the one to the S of it, with lines to each. It is shallow enough to anchor between the docks until the boat can be tied up.

The bottom drops away sharply from the dock to over 30m, so it would seem impractical to lay out an anchor to hold the vessel off. Although Grass Island protects the bay from the E, there is still a 1½ mile fetch, and it would probably be very uncomfortable alongside in a strong E'ly blow.

The station is of interest, but it is falling down and has been subject to vandalism. The Manager's Villa at the S end of the station, is where Shackleton and his companions arrived after crossing the island. A plaque to commemorate this has been placed outside the house on the land side.

There are walks to Husvik and Leith and a longer one over the col to Fortuna Bay.

The Pilot warns of very strong winds during offshore gales. A large, yellow mooring buoy maintained by the Admiralty, lies in the bay.

If obtaining water from the stream it is advisable to go well up above the tanks, which may be leaking and polluting the water.

STROMNESS HARBOUR – THE MAIN WHARF, LOOKING N

LEITH HARBOUR

54^o08'S 36^o 41'W
Chart 3589, Approaches to Leith, Stromness and Husvik Harbours

General

This was another whaling station, but it was more famous in recent years as the site of the start of the Falklands Conflict, in 1982. An Argentine commercial salvage operation was used to disguise the arrival of military personnel, who eventually invaded the island. As a consequence of the salvage work (which was never completed) there is a huge pile of rusting machinery and parts by the main dock. Much more is scattered about making this station probably the worst eyesore on the island, which is saying a lot. While many of the buildings are still standing, time and vandalism have taken their usual toll.

Anchorage

The main dock is still in reasonable condition, with heavy fendering on the SE side which has a depth of 6.5m alongside. A dense patch of kelp exists between the shore and the SE side of the jetty, which makes it advisable to approach from the NE.

If you intend to stay for several days, it is possible to moor in a small basin a short distance NW of the main dock. This offers good protection from the sea from all quarters. The NW corner of the basin is shoal with the remains of a small wooden boat showing at low water. The depth at the SE end is not known, but is believed to be sufficient for most yachts. NW winds can blow here with extreme violence. Some swell may be experienced in the basin.

A yellow mooring buoy in Leith Harbour, is laid and maintained by the Admiralty for the use of ships.

LEITH HARBOUR, SMALL BOAT BASIN - LOOKING E

GRASS ISLAND

54^o09'S 36^o40'W
Chart 3589: Approaches to Leith, Stromness and Husvik Harbours

General

This island guards the entrance to Stromness Harbour. On the E side of the island is an anchorage giving good shelter from the SW through W to N, without the fierce squalls that apparently affect Stromness Harbour itself, in W'ly gales. It is, however, wide open to the E.

Anchorage

Anchor in about 12m in a patch clear of kelp. It is possible to land on the beach to the W of the anchorage.

The old lighthouse building on the E point of the island is still in quite good condition.

GRASS ISLAND, LOOKING S

CAPE SAUNDERS BAY

54^o08'S 36^o39'W
Chart 3589: Approaches to Stromness and Cumberland Bays

General

About ½ mile SW of Cape Saunders is an unnamed bay, offering a good anchorage with shelter from the N and W.

Approach

If coming from Leith or Stromness Harours, it is possible to pass inside Black Rocks, but care should be taken to avoid the drying rock 1½ cables W of the western islet. There is plenty of room to tack through the centre of the channel. Note that there is a drying rock, shown on the chart 2 cables S of the headland to the W of Cape Saunders Bay, which should also be avoided.

Anchorage

Anchor near the centre of the bay in 10m, in a patch clear of kelp. The bottom is fine sand, with kelp.

CAPE SAUNDERS BAY, LOOKING NW

HERCULES BAY

54^o07'W 36^o40'

Chart 3589, Approaches to Stromness and Cumberland Bays

General

The entrance to this bay is situated 1 mile WNW of Cape Saunders. There is deep water inshore of Humpback Rocks and Turpie Rock.

Approach

The bay appears to be clear of dangers, except possibly close inshore.

Anchorage

At the head of the bay there is a conspicuous waterfall; sail towards this and anchor in 11m. The bottom seems to be clear of kelp. There is good shelter from all directions with the exception of the NE'ly quadrant.

When we visited, Fur seals, Sea Elephants and King penguins were seen on the beach, in front of the waterfall. On the cliff to the S of this beach, is a large colony of Macaroni penguins.

This is a delightful anchorage and well worth a visit.

HERCULES BAY, LOOKING SW

FORTUNA BAY

This is an attractive bay with the Konig Glacier and the S arm of the Fortuna Glacier flowing towards the bay. Both of these have retreated back from the shoreline. Although the broad expanse of these glaciers may well give rise to strong local winds, none was experienced in the light NE'ly conditions prevailing on the occasion of Badger's visit.

Three anchorages were visited and shelter can be found from all but the North in one or other of these.

WHISTLE COVE

54^o09'S 36^o49'W

Chart 3585: Fortuna Bay

Approach

This cove is at the SW corner of the bay and provides a good anchorage from where a visit can be made to the King penguin colony, situated on the moraine at the W side of the Konig Glacier front.

Anchorage

Anchorage was found in 6.5m, fine sand, with no kelp. The cove is sheltered from S through W to NW.

Remarks

Ashore, there were only a few fur seals, when we visited in Badger.

WHISTLE COVE

SMALL BAY

54^o07'S 36^o47'W

Chart 3585: Fortuna Bay

Approach

Situated halfway down the E shore of Fortuna Bay, Small Bay provides good shelter from the NE through E to SSE.

Anchorage

Anchorage was found at the S end of the bay in 11m, in a patch clear of kelp.

SMALL BAY, LOOKING S

ANCHORAGE BAY

54^o07'S 36^o49'W

Chart 3585: Fortuna Bay

Approach

Anchorage Bay is situated by the S arm of the Fortuna Glacier.

Anchorage

On the occasion of Badger's visit, we anchored S of the southern of the two streams entering the bay. There is a sizeable kelp patch off the beach, but it has clear water inshore of it. Depths are around 8m, with plenty of swinging room.

Shelter can be found from NNW through W to S.

ILLUSION COVE

54^o06'S 36^o48'W

Chart 3585: Fortuna Bay

General

A small cove is formed S of Illusion Point.

There appears to be an anchorage in 11.5m, in a patch clear of the extensive kelp, but we did not actually anchor here. The cove is sheltered from W and N.

BLUE WHALE HARBOUR

54^o04'S 37^o01'W

Chart 3585: Blue Whale Harbour

General

This harbour is situated on the E side of the entrance to Possession Bay and is one of the more sheltered anchorages in South Georgia.

Approach

The entrance has much kelp in it, but a clear passage can be found by favouring the W side.

Anchorage

The best shelter appears to be in the NW cove, SW of Shelter Point and off the caves, in 8.5m, in a patch clear of kelp. Although Blue Whale Harbour is open to the N, protection from this direction will be given by Shelter Point, in the recommended anchorage.

Remarks

A pleasant and easy walk can be taken to visit Antarctic Bay. This will be found by crossing the low col to the E of the harbour. It is possible to land on the beach S of Clear Point.

BLUE WHALE HARBOUR, LOOKING NW

COOK BAY

General

Cook Bay is to the North of Possession Bay. The latter has the unenviable reputation of being the windiest spot in South Georgia and certainly, on the day on which Badger crossed its mouth, the wind was blowing hard from the glacier at the head of the bay, while previously we had only been experiencing winds of F3 from NNE.

Possession Bay was named by Captain Cook in 1775, when he made the first landing on South Georgia.

ELEPHANT LAGOON

54^oO3'S 37^o08'W

Chart 3585: Prince Olav Harbour and Approaches

General

At the S end of Cook Bay, at the entrance to Prince Olav Harbour, lies this almost- totally landlocked lagoon.

Approach

The framework of the old lighthouse on Sheep Point makes a convenient landmark to find the entrance. Close S of Sheep Point is the Carl Passage, which is the narrow entrance to the lagoon. Although there is much kelp around here, an almost clear lead can be found through it, with above-water rocks on either hand.

The narrowest part of the channel is encountered just before the lagoon is entered, and is approximately 25m wide. The chart indicates a minimum depth of 1.8m and on the occasion of Badger's visit, soundings suggested that this is still the case. We entered at approximately half tide, near Springs and found a minimum depth of 2.3m. Most yachts should have no trouble in entering after half tide.

Anchorage

Anchorage was found in 7.5m, mud.

Remarks

Landing is possible ashore in most places. South and East Bays are reported to be very windy places, which suggests that Elephant Lagoon probably suffers the same. Recommended in settled weather.

ELEPHANT LAGOON, LOOKING E TO THE CARL PASSAGE

PRINCE OLAV HARBOUR

54^o03'S 39^o09'W

Chart 3585: Prince Olav Harbour and Approaches

Prince Olav Harbour, North Bay

Approach

The old whaling station is situated in North Bay. To enter this, pass N of Brutus Island (Saddle Island on old charts) and thread your way through the kelp beds.

Anchorage

There is really too much kelp in North Bay to consider anchoring. The wooden jetty is in a poor state, but is strong enough for a yacht to tie up to, with 7m of water alongside. There is no fendering on the dock and a fender board would be most useful. The decking on the jetty is very rotten and care should be taken when walking about on it.

If intending to stay for more than a brief visit, it may well be worth considering tying up bow and stern between the W end of the dock and a short wooden pier further W. Curlew tied up in this manner when visiting the harbour.

Remarks

The whaling station was abandoned in 1946 and the buildings are in a poor condition, but there does not appear to have been as much vandalism here, as at other sites. Consequently, the station is less depressing than most.

The hulk of the Brutus is lying, half submerged, S of Pig Point. She was a three-masted, iron-hulled vessel, 76m long and 1686 tons. She was built in 1883 by J Reid and Co. of Glasgow and was first named Sierra Pedrosa while owned by the Sierra Shipping line of Lima. After coming to South Georgia, she was used as a coaling hulk alongside the jetty, before ending her days on the beach.

PRINCE OLAV HARBOUR LOOKING SE

BAY OF ISLANDS

This is an aptly-named bay about 10 miles long and containing within its compass a number of low, tussac-covered islands. Several of these are nesting sites for Wandering albatross and the big, white birds, dotting the islands, can easily be seen from quite some distance away. It was around here that Robert Murphy, the naturalist on board the whaler, Daisy, spent much of his time when in South Georgia. He wrote about this in A Logbook for Grace and did the initial survey of the area, which was used until quite recently. Many of the islands and other features were named by Murphy

BECKMANN FJORD

54^o03'S 37^o11'W

Chart 3585: Cape Buller to Cape Constance

General

This fjord lies at the E end of the Bay of Islands and provides two anchorages. There is a long line of kelp extending from the E shore across the entrance; pass to the W of this. Various other patches of kelp have to be avoided once in the fjord. A drying rock lies about 200m off the small headland separating the SW and the SE extremities of the fjord.

Anchorages

The first anchorage is found in the W corner of the SE part of the bay, behind the small headland mentioned above. There are quite a few rocks close to the headland. Anchor clear of the kelp, near the beach, in 12 m. This gives shelter from NW through W to S.

Off the beach, at the E side of the SE corner of Beckmann Fjord, we found 10.5m, clear of kelp. This anchorage would give shelter from N through E to S.

Remarks

When visited, there was little swell, but this was probably the exception.

Beckmann Fjord may well give the best shelter from the E in the Bay of Islands.

BECKMANN FJORD, LOOKING S

PRION ISLAND

54^o01'S 37^o15'W Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance

General

A very small cove is situated at the SE corner of this island.

Approach

Approach from the SE and work your way in through the kelp between the two rocks, as shown on the sketch chart. Once inside the kelp, there is a small basin, about 90m across, close to the beach.

Anchorage

Anchor in the centre in 2.4m, sand and a little weed. There is shelter from the NW.

This tiny anchorage is fine for a short stay in fair weather. Several Wandering albatross nest on the island.

It is possible to anchor outside the cove in 12m in a clear patch in the kelp. This is also sheltered from the NW.

PRION ISLAND, LOOKING S

    ALBATROSS ISLAND

54^o01'S 37^o20'W                                                                                                                         

Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance

General 

At the S end of this island, there is an anchorage off a shingle beach.  This is the 'Miracle Cove' mentioned in Gerry Clark's The TOTORORE Voyage. 

Approach 

A reef extends SW from the S tip of the island, marked by thick kelp beds.  Enter the cove from the SW, heading NE towards the beach, between the line of kelp and the kelp along the shoreline.

Anchorage

 

Anchor near the beach in 7m, clear of kelp.  It is sheltered from the N through E to SE.

Remarks

There are many Wandering albatross and some Giant petrels nesting on the higher ground.

 

ALBATROSS ISLAND, LOOKING SW

SALISBURY PLAIN

54^o03'S 37^o20'W

Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance

General

The most outstanding feature of this area is the enormous King penguin colony that lies a little W of the Lucas Glacier. The best place from which to visit this rookery seems to be off the long beach, SSE of Tern Island.

Approach

There are a couple of drying rocks close to the beach here, and large beds of kelp.

Anchorage

SALISBURY PLAIN

54^o03'S 37^o20'W

Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance

General

The most outstanding feature of this area is the enormous King penguin colony that lies a little W of the Lucas Glacier. The best place from which to visit this rookery seems to be off the long beach, SSE of Tern Island.

Approach

There are a couple of drying rocks close to the beach here, and large beds of kelp.

Anchorage

We found a small patch clear of kelp near the E end and anchored in 13.5m. There was shallower water further offshore in 10 to 11m, as shown on the sketch chart, again in small areas and clear of kelp. There is shelter from the W and S.

Remarks

The penguin colony can clearly be identified from the anchorage and it is an easy walk with relatively few fur seals about, when we visited Landing on the shingle beach may well be difficult if there is any swell.

We found a small patch clear of kelp near the E end and anchored in 13.5m. There was shallower water further offshore in 10 to 11m, as shown on the sketch chart, again in small areas and clear of kelp. There is shelter from the W and S.

Remarks

The penguin colony can clearly be identified from the anchorage and it is an easy walk with relatively few fur seals about, when we visited Landing on the shingle beach may well be difficult if there is any swell.

SALISBURY PLAIN, LOOKING NW, BADGER ANCHORED IN THE CENTRE

SALISBURY PLAIN, LOOKING NW, BADGER ANCHORED IN THE CENTRE

 

JOCK COVE

54^o02'S 37^o26'W

Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance

Approach

On the N shore of Sunset Fjord, the headland of Jock Point forms a small Cove.

Anchorage

Anchorage can be obtained in 7m off the shingle beach clear of kelp and sheltered from SW through N to NE. Small quantities of ice from the Brunonia Glacier were in the Fjord, but there was no ice in Jock Cove, when visited.

Remarks

The Glacier is receding and now has only a small calving front.

 

JOCK COVE, LOOKING E

 

 

CAMP BAY

54^o02'S 37^o27'W

Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance

Anchorage

We anchored at the SW corner of this bay, in 7m, clear of kelp, off the small waterfall running down the moss-covered rock. We were sheltered from N through W to SE.

Remarks

According to the Admiralty Pilot, the wind does not appear to blow very hard in the bay.

CAMP BAY, LOOKING W

 

ROSITA HARBOUR

54^o00'S 37^o26'W

Chart 3585, Rosita Harbour

General

This is generally regarded as the best anchorage in the Bay of Islands. There are two possibilities.

Approach

The N cove is the preferred anchorage. The cove is guarded by a lot of kelp, but there are clear leads through which you can weave your way in.

Anchorage (i)

Anchor in the large, clear patch, close to the shore in about 5m. Good shelter can be found from SW through W to NE. Although the cove is open to the S and E, with a 4 mile fetch, the extensive kelp beds may reduce the seas to make the anchorage tenable.

Anchorage (ii)

A kelp-marked reef divides the head of the bay in two. S and W of this reef and off the beach, is an anchorage in 4.5m, clear of kelp. Approximately one third of the way along this bay there is an underwater rock, near to the beach. When anchoring, ensure that you have sufficient swinging room to clear this. The S shore of the bay has extensive kelp beds off it. This anchorage is sheltered from the SE through W to N. 

N COVE, ROSITA HARBOUR, LOOKING SW

 

HEAD OF BAY, ROSITA HARBOUR, LOOKING SW

KOPPERVIK

54^o00'S 37^o24'W 
Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance

 

General

Koppervik is a bay about 1 mile SW of Cape Buller. The W end is protected by Breakwater Point and forms a small cove.
  
Approach 
A kelp reef extends E from Breakwater Point. When entering, pass to the E of this reef and then follow the clear lead through the kelp to the head of the cove. 
Anchorage 
Anchor in 6m, clear of kelp. There is shelter from SW through NW to NE.

Remarks

A low col, on the N side of the bay, leads over to Sitka Bay. However, it is very steep on the Sitka Bay side.

 

KOPPERVIK, LOOKING SW

SITKA BAY

53^o59'S 37^o24'W

Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance

General

This bay is 1 mile W of Cape Buller. Along this stretch of coastline there are many Black-browed mollyhawks nesting in the high tussac cliffs.

Anchorage

We anchored in the NW part of the bay, to get out of the worst of the swell, in 13m, in a small patch clear of the extensive kelp. There was shelter from the N through W to S.

Remarks

When we visited, there was too much swell to land, but there are several beaches where landing should be possible. We found this to be rather a gloomy anchorage.

SITKA BAY, LOOKING SW

RIGHT WHALE BAY

Binder Beach lies at the head of Right Whale Bay, a moraine beach which has a very large King penguin colony situated at the S end.

There are two good anchorages, between them giving shelter from nearly all directions, although protection from the N to NE is a bit marginal.

BARBER COVE

54^o00'S 37^o40'W

Chart 3585, Right Whale Bay

Approach

A reef of above- and below-water rocks extends SW from the N end of the cove. The outer end is marked by kelp. Pass W of this kelp and enter the bay between the kelp on either shore.

Anchorage

Anchor near the head of the cove, off the black, sand beach in about 10m. Good shelter can be obtained from NE through E to S.

 BARBER COVE, LOOKING E

CAIRNS COVE

54^o00'S 37^o41'W

Chart 3585, Right Whale Bay

General

This is regarded as the best shelter in the bay in the prevailing W'ly winds. We did not anchor here as the wind was E'ly at the time, but we sailed in to have a look.

Anchorage

Depths of 7.5m were found in the cove, clear of kelp, with good shelter from the S through W to NNE.

Remarks

It should be possible to walk from here to Binder Beach to see the King penguins, but there are large numbers of fur seals ashore. If the swell allows, it would probably be easier to land at Binder Beach from the dinghy.

 CAIRNS COVE, LOOKING W

ELSEHUL

54^o01'S 37^o58'W

Chart 3585, Elsehul

General

This bay is at the W end of South Georgia and its inner part provides good protection from the sea. Although it appears to be open to the NW, by tucking into the W side of the inner bay, shelter from the NW can be found.

Anchorage

Anchor in about 6.5m, outside the kelp, off the beach. The bottom is fine sand and provides exceptionally good holding.

Remarks

When we visited, we anchored in the E side of the inner bay, outside the kelp in 8.5m, thinking to shelter from a NE gale. The whole bay was subject to hurricane force gusts from the N, with a big swell setting in. The anchor to which we were lying did not budge an inch, but we had every anchor on board deployed. In retrospect, we would have been better off anchored on the W side: the gusts were as violent, but there was much less swell.

An old BAS hut, used for seal studies in the past, stands on the beach on the W side of the harbour. In 1995 it was in a rather poor state, but still habitable. Next to it are three old trypots. A short walk over the low ground at the head of the bay, takes you to Undine Harbour on the S coast.

Water can be obtained from a stream at the NE corner of the inner bay.

ELSEHUL, LOOKING SE