Badger

Badger

Iron Bark II

Iron Bark II

About Me

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I first crossed the Atlantic in 1975 on 'Stormalong', a 28ft Wharram-designed catamaran. Back in the UK, Pete and I bought an ex 6-metre racing yacht, 'Sheila', living on her for 4 years. Wanting to do more and go further, we built 'Badger' - the best boat in the world - sailing her 110,000 miles, to the Arctic and the Antarctic, around the Atlantic North and South and into the Baltic. She had junk rig - the only rig I will ever now cruise with. Pete wanted to build a 38 ft junk-rigged catamaran, 'China Moon' - which he designed. But before the project was finished, we went our separate ways. A year later I joined Trevor Robertson aboard his 35ft 'Iron Bark'. We explored the Canadian Maritimes, crossed the Atlantic twice, wintered in Greenland and crossed the Pacific to Australia and New Zealand. I fell in love with NZ and jumping ship, bought my own boat while Trevor carried on voyaging. I put a junk rig onto ‘Fantail’ and, having decided that N Island offered better cruising opportunities than S Island, sailed up there in 2012. Looking for a boat to see me out, I built the 26ft 'FanShi' and now live on board her, pottering about, generally around the Bay of Islands.

Sunday, 21 October 2007


LEITH HARBOUR

54o08'S 36o 41'W
Chart 3589, Approaches to Leith, Stromness and Husvik Harbours
General

This was another whaling station, but it was more famous in recent years as the site of the start of the Falklands Conflict, in 1982. An Argentine commercial salvage operation was used to disguise the arrival of military personnel, who eventually invaded the island. As a consequence of the salvage work (which was never completed) there is a huge pile of rusting machinery and parts by the main dock. Much more is scattered about making this station probably the worst eyesore on the island, which is saying a lot. While many of the buildings are still standing, time and vandalism have taken their usual toll.
Anchorage

The main dock is still in reasonable condition, with heavy fendering on the SE side which has a depth of 6.5m alongside. A dense patch of kelp exists between the shore and the SE side of the jetty, which makes it advisable to approach from the NE.
If you intend to stay for several days, it is possible to moor in a small basin a short distance NW of the main dock. This offers good protection from the sea from all quarters. The NW corner of the basin is shoal with the remains of a small wooden boat showing at low water. The depth at the SE end is not known, but is believed to be sufficient for most yachts. NW winds can blow here with extreme violence. Some swell may be experienced in the basin.
A yellow mooring buoy in Leith Harbour, is laid and maintained by the Admiralty for the use of ships.
LEITH HARBOUR, SMALL BOAT BASIN - LOOKING E





GRASS ISLAND
54o09'S 36o40'W
Chart 3589: Approaches to Leith, Stromness and Husvik Harbours
General
This island guards the entrance to Stromness Harbour. On the E side of the island is an anchorage giving good shelter from the SW through W to N, without the fierce squalls that apparently affect Stromness Harbour itself, in W'ly gales. It is, however, wide open to the E.
Anchorage
Anchor in about 12m in a patch clear of kelp. It is possible to land on the beach to the W of the anchorage.
The old lighthouse building on the E point of the island is still in quite good condition.

GRASS ISLAND, LOOKING S

CAPE SAUNDERS BAY

54o08'S 36o39'W
Chart 3589: Approaches to Stromness and Cumberland Bays

General
About ½ mile SW of Cape Saunders is an unnamed bay, offering a good anchorage with shelter from the N and W.
Approach
If coming from Leith or Stromness Harours, it is possible to pass inside Black Rocks, but care should be taken to avoid the drying rock 1½ cables W of the western islet. There is plenty of room to tack through the centre of the channel. Note that there is a drying rock, shown on the chart 2 cables S of the headland to the W of Cape Saunders Bay, which should also be avoided.
Anchorage
Anchor near the centre of the bay in 10m, in a patch clear of kelp. The bottom is fine sand, with kelp.
CAPE SAUNDERS BAY, LOOKING NW



HERCULES BAY


54o07'W 36o40'
Chart 3589, Approaches to Stromness and Cumberland Bays

General

The entrance to this bay is situated 1 mile WNW of Cape Saunders. There is deep water inshore of Humpback Rocks and Turpie Rock.

Approach

The bay appears to be clear of dangers, except possibly close inshore.

Anchorage

At the head of the bay there is a conspicuous waterfall; sail towards this and anchor in 11m. The bottom seems to be clear of kelp. There is good shelter from all directions with the exception of the NE'ly quadrant.

When we visited, Fur seals, Sea Elephants and King penguins were seen on the beach, in front of the waterfall. On the cliff to the S of this beach, is a large colony of Macaroni penguins.

This is a delightful anchorage and well worth a visit.




HERCULES BAY, LOOKING SW






FORTUNA BAY

This is an attractive bay with the Konig Glacier and the S arm of the Fortuna Glacier flowing towards the bay. Both of these have retreated back from the shoreline. Although the broad expanse of these glaciers may well give rise to strong local winds, none was experienced in the light NE'ly conditions prevailing on the occasion of Badger's visit.

Three anchorages were visited and shelter can be found from all but the North in one or other of these.


WHISTLE COVE

54o09'S 36o49'W
Chart 3585: Fortuna Bay

Approach

This cove is at the SW corner of the bay and provides a good anchorage from where a visit can be made to the King penguin colony, situated on the moraine at the W side of the Konig Glacier front.

Anchorage

Anchorage was found in 6.5m, fine sand, with no kelp. The cove is sheltered from S through W to NW.

Remarks

Ashore, there were only a few fur seals, when we visited in Badger.



WHISTLE COVE




SMALL BAY

54o07'S 36o47'W
Chart 3585: Fortuna Bay

Approach

Situated halfway down the E shore of Fortuna Bay, Small Bay provides good shelter from the NE through E to SSE.

Anchorage

Anchorage was found at the S end of the bay in 11m, in a patch clear of kelp.




SMALL BAY, LOOKING S



ANCHORAGE BAY

54o07'S 36o49'W
Chart 3585: Fortuna Bay

Approach

Anchorage Bay is situated by the S arm of the Fortuna Glacier.

Anchorage

On the occasion of Badger's visit, we anchored S of the southern of the two streams entering the bay. There is a sizeable kelp patch off the beach, but it has clear water inshore of it. Depths are around 8m, with plenty of swinging room.

Shelter can be found from NNW through W to S.


ILLUSION COVE

54o06'S 36o48'W
Chart 3585: Fortuna Bay

General

A small cove is formed S of Illusion Point.

There appears to be an anchorage in 11.5m, in a patch clear of the extensive kelp, but we did not actually anchor here. The cove is sheltered from W and N.



BLUE WHALE HARBOUR

54o04'S 37o01'W
Chart 3585: Blue Whale Harbour

General

This harbour is situated on the E side of the entrance to Possession Bay and is one of the more sheltered anchorages in South Georgia.

Approach

The entrance has much kelp in it, but a clear passage can be found by favouring the W side.

Anchorage

The best shelter appears to be in the NW cove, SW of Shelter Point and off the caves, in 8.5m, in a patch clear of kelp. Although Blue Whale Harbour is open to the N, protection from this direction will be given by Shelter Point, in the recommended anchorage.

Remarks

A pleasant and easy walk can be taken to visit Antarctic Bay. This will be found by crossing the low col to the E of the harbour. It is possible to land on the beach S of Clear Point.




BLUE WHALE HARBOUR, LOOKING NW





COOK BAY


General


Cook Bay is to the North of Possession Bay. The latter has the unenviable reputation of being the windiest spot in South Georgia and certainly, on the day on which Badger crossed its mouth, the wind was blowing hard from the glacier at the head of the bay, while previously we had only been experiencing winds of F3 from NNE.

Possession Bay was named by Captain Cook in 1775, when he made the first landing on South Georgia.


ELEPHANT LAGOON


54oO3'S 37o08'W
Chart 3585: Prince Olav Harbour and Approaches

General


At the S end of Cook Bay, at the entrance to Prince Olav Harbour, lies this almost- totally landlocked lagoon.

Approach

The framework of the old lighthouse on Sheep Point makes a convenient landmark to find the entrance. Close S of Sheep Point is the Carl Passage, which is the narrow entrance to the lagoon. Although there is much kelp around here, an almost clear lead can be found through it, with above-water rocks on either hand.

The narrowest part of the channel is encountered just before the lagoon is entered, and is approximately 25m wide. The chart indicates a minimum depth of 1.8m and on the occasion of Badger's visit, soundings suggested that this is still the case. We entered at approximately half tide, near Springs and found a minimum depth of 2.3m. Most yachts should have no trouble in entering after half tide.

Anchorage

Anchorage was found in 7.5m, mud.

Remarks

Landing is possible ashore in most places. South and East Bays are reported to be very windy places, which suggests that Elephant Lagoon probably suffers the same. Recommended in settled weather.





ELEPHANT LAGOON, LOOKING E TO THE CARL PASSAGE








PRINCE OLAV HARBOUR


54o03'S 39o09'W
Chart 3585: Prince Olav Harbour and Approaches
Prince Olav Harbour, North Bay



Approach


The old whaling station is situated in North Bay. To enter this, pass N of Brutus Island (Saddle Island on old charts) and thread your way through the kelp beds.

Anchorage


There is really too much kelp in North Bay to consider anchoring. The wooden jetty is in a poor state, but is strong enough for a yacht to tie up to, with 7m of water alongside. There is no fendering on the dock and a fender board would be most useful. The decking on the jetty is very rotten and care should be taken when walking about on it.

If intending to stay for more than a brief visit, it may well be worth considering tying up bow and stern between the W end of the dock and a short wooden pier further W. Curlew tied up in this manner when visiting the harbour.

Remarks


The whaling station was abandoned in 1946 and the buildings are in a poor condition, but there does not appear to have been as much vandalism here, as at other sites. Consequently, the station is less depressing than most.

The hulk of the Brutus is lying, half submerged, S of Pig Point. She was a three-masted, iron-hulled vessel, 76m long and 1686 tons. She was built in 1883 by J Reid and Co. of Glasgow and was first named Sierra Pedrosa while owned by the Sierra Shipping line of Lima. After coming to South Georgia, she was used as a coaling hulk alongside the jetty, before ending her days on the beach.





PRINCE OLAV HARBOUR LOOKING SE



BAY OF ISLANDS



This is an aptly-named bay about 10 miles long and containing within its compass a number of low, tussac-covered islands. Several of these are nesting sites for Wandering albatross and the big, white birds, dotting the islands, can easily be seen from quite some distance away. It was around here that Robert Murphy, the naturalist on board the whaler, Daisy, spent much of his time when in South Georgia. He wrote about this in A Logbook for Grace and did the initial survey of the area, which was used until quite recently. Many of the islands and other features were named by Murphy

BECKMANN FJORD



54o03'S 37o11'W

Chart 3585: Cape Buller to Cape Constance

General

This fjord lies at the E end of the Bay of Islands and provides two anchorages. There is a long line of kelp extending from the E shore across the entrance; pass to the W of this. Various other patches of kelp have to be avoided once in the fjord. A drying rock lies about 200m off the small headland separating the SW and the SE extremities of the fjord.

Anchorages

The first anchorage is found in the W corner of the SE part of the bay, behind the small headland mentioned above. There are quite a few rocks close to the headland. Anchor clear of the kelp, near the beach, in 12 m. This gives shelter from NW through W to S.

Off the beach, at the E side of the SE corner of Beckmann Fjord, we found 10.5m, clear of kelp. This anchorage would give shelter from N through E to S.

Remarks

When visited, there was little swell, but this was probably the exception.

Beckmann Fjord may well give the best shelter from the E in the Bay of Islands.





BECKMANN FJORD, LOOKING S




PRION ISLAND



54o01'S 37o15'W Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance

General

A very small cove is situated at the SE corner of this island.

Approach

Approach from the SE and work your way in through the kelp between the two rocks, as shown on the sketch chart. Once inside the kelp, there is a small basin, about 90m across, close to the beach.

Anchorage


Anchor in the centre in 2.4m, sand and a little weed. There is shelter from the NW.

This tiny anchorage is fine for a short stay in fair weather. Several Wandering albatross nest on the island.

It is possible to anchor outside the cove in 12m in a clear patch in the kelp. This is also sheltered from the NW.

PRION ISLAND, LOOKING S



    ALBATROSS ISLAND


54o01'S 37o20'W                                                                                                                         
Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance

General 

At the S end of this island, there is an anchorage off a shingle beach.  This is the 'Miracle Cove' mentioned in Gerry Clark's The TOTORORE Voyage

Approach 

A reef extends SW from the S tip of the island, marked by thick kelp beds.  Enter the cove from the SW, heading NE towards the beach, between the line of kelp and the kelp along the shoreline.

Anchorage
 
Anchor near the beach in 7m, clear of kelp.  It is sheltered from the N through E to SE.

Remarks

There are many Wandering albatross and some Giant petrels nesting on the higher ground.

 
ALBATROSS ISLAND, LOOKING SW






SALISBURY PLAIN


54o03'S 37o20'W
Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance


General

The most outstanding feature of this area is the enormous King penguin colony that lies a little W of the Lucas Glacier. The best place from which to visit this rookery seems to be off the long beach, SSE of Tern Island.

Approach

There are a couple of drying rocks close to the beach here, and large beds of kelp.

Anchorage
SALISBURY PLAIN


54o03'S 37o20'W
Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance


General

The most outstanding feature of this area is the enormous King penguin colony that lies a little W of the Lucas Glacier. The best place from which to visit this rookery seems to be off the long beach, SSE of Tern Island.

Approach

There are a couple of drying rocks close to the beach here, and large beds of kelp.

Anchorage

We found a small patch clear of kelp near the E end and anchored in 13.5m. There was shallower water further offshore in 10 to 11m, as shown on the sketch chart, again in small areas and clear of kelp. There is shelter from the W and S.

Remarks

The penguin colony can clearly be identified from the anchorage and it is an easy walk with relatively few fur seals about, when we visited Landing on the shingle beach may well be difficult if there is any swell.

We found a small patch clear of kelp near the E end and anchored in 13.5m. There was shallower water further offshore in 10 to 11m, as shown on the sketch chart, again in small areas and clear of kelp. There is shelter from the W and S.

Remarks

The penguin colony can clearly be identified from the anchorage and it is an easy walk with relatively few fur seals about, when we visited Landing on the shingle beach may well be difficult if there is any swell.


SALISBURY PLAIN, LOOKING NW, BADGER ANCHORED IN THE CENTRE
SALISBURY PLAIN, LOOKING NW, BADGER ANCHORED IN THE CENTRE


 
JOCK COVE








54o02'S 37o26'W



Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance







Approach







On the N shore of Sunset Fjord, the headland of Jock Point forms a small Cove.







Anchorage







Anchorage can be obtained in 7m off the shingle beach clear of kelp and sheltered from SW through N to NE. Small quantities of ice from the Brunonia Glacier were in the Fjord, but there was no ice in Jock Cove, when visited.







Remarks







The Glacier is receding and now has only a small calving front.

JOCK COVE, LOOKING E
 





 
CAMP BAY


54o02'S 37o27'W
Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance


Anchorage

We anchored at the SW corner of this bay, in 7m, clear of kelp, off the small waterfall running down the moss-covered rock. We were sheltered from N through W to SE.

Remarks

According to the Admiralty Pilot, the wind does not appear to blow very hard in the bay.



CAMP BAY, LOOKING W
 




ROSITA HARBOUR


54o00'S 37o26'W
Chart 3585, Rosita Harbour

General

This is generally regarded as the best anchorage in the Bay of Islands. There are two possibilities.

Approach

The N cove is the preferred anchorage. The cove is guarded by a lot of kelp, but there are clear leads through which you can weave your way in.

Anchorage (i)





Anchor in the large, clear patch, close to the shore in about 5m. Good shelter can be found from SW through W to NE. Although the cove is open to the S and E, with a 4 mile fetch, the extensive kelp beds may reduce the seas to make the anchorage tenable.

Anchorage (ii)

A kelp-marked reef divides the head of the bay in two. S and W of this reef and off the beach, is an anchorage in 4.5m, clear of kelp. Approximately one third of the way along this bay there is an underwater rock, near to the beach. When anchoring, ensure that you have sufficient swinging room to clear this. The S shore of the bay has extensive kelp beds off it. This anchorage is sheltered from the SE through W to N. 


N COVE, ROSITA HARBOUR, LOOKING SW
 

HEAD OF BAY, ROSITA HARBOUR, LOOKING SW

KOPPERVIK


54o00'S 37o24'W 
Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance
 
General
Koppervik is a bay about 1 mile SW of Cape Buller. The W end is protected by Breakwater Point and forms a small cove.
  
Approach 
A kelp reef extends E from Breakwater Point. When entering, pass to the E of this reef and then follow the clear lead through the kelp to the head of the cove. 
Anchorage 
Anchor in 6m, clear of kelp. There is shelter from SW through NW to NE.

Remarks

A low col, on the N side of the bay, leads over to Sitka Bay. However, it is very steep on the Sitka Bay side.

 


KOPPERVIK, LOOKING SW




SITKA BAY


53o59'S 37o24'W
Chart 3585, Cape Buller to Cape Constance

General

This bay is 1 mile W of Cape Buller. Along this stretch of coastline there are many Black-browed mollyhawks nesting in the high tussac cliffs.

Anchorage

We anchored in the NW part of the bay, to get out of the worst of the swell, in 13m, in a small patch clear of the extensive kelp. There was shelter from the N through W to S.

Remarks

When we visited, there was too much swell to land, but there are several beaches where landing should be possible. We found this to be rather a gloomy anchorage.




SITKA BAY, LOOKING SW



RIGHT WHALE BAY

Binder Beach lies at the head of Right Whale Bay, a moraine beach which has a very large King penguin colony situated at the S end.

There are two good anchorages, between them giving shelter from nearly all directions, although protection from the N to NE is a bit marginal.

BARBER COVE



54o00'S 37o40'W

Chart 3585, Right Whale Bay


Approach


A reef of above- and below-water rocks extends SW from the N end of the cove. The outer end is marked by kelp. Pass W of this kelp and enter the bay between the kelp on either shore.


Anchorage


Anchor near the head of the cove, off the black, sand beach in about 10m. Good shelter can be obtained from NE through E to S.


 BARBER COVE, LOOKING E



CAIRNS COVE


54o00'S 37o41'W


Chart 3585, Right Whale Bay







General





This is regarded as the best shelter in the bay in the prevailing W'ly winds. We did not anchor here as the wind was E'ly at the time, but we sailed in to have a look.





Anchorage





Depths of 7.5m were found in the cove, clear of kelp, with good shelter from the S through W to NNE.





Remarks





It should be possible to walk from here to Binder Beach to see the King penguins, but there are large numbers of fur seals ashore. If the swell allows, it would probably be easier to land at Binder Beach from the dinghy.


 CAIRNS COVE, LOOKING W


ELSEHUL






54o01'S 37o58'W




Chart 3585, Elsehul









General









This bay is at the W end of South Georgia and its inner part provides good protection from the sea. Although it appears to be open to the NW, by tucking into the W side of the inner bay, shelter from the NW can be found.









Anchorage









Anchor in about 6.5m, outside the kelp, off the beach. The bottom is fine sand and provides exceptionally good holding.









Remarks









When we visited, we anchored in the E side of the inner bay, outside the kelp in 8.5m, thinking to shelter from a NE gale. The whole bay was subject to hurricane force gusts from the N, with a big swell setting in. The anchor to which we were lying did not budge an inch, but we had every anchor on board deployed. In retrospect, we would have been better off anchored on the W side: the gusts were as violent, but there was much less swell.









An old BAS hut, used for seal studies in the past, stands on the beach on the W side of the harbour. In 1995 it was in a rather poor state, but still habitable. Next to it are three old trypots. A short walk over the low ground at the head of the bay, takes you to Undine Harbour on the S coast.









Water can be obtained from a stream at the NE corner of the inner bay.


ELSEHUL, LOOKING SE








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