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I first crossed the Atlantic in 1975 aboard 'Stormalong', a 28ft Wharram-designed catamaran. Back in the UK, Pete and I bought an ex 6-metre racing yacht, 'Sheila', living on her for 4 years. Wanting to do more and go further with a boat we could completely trust, we built 'Badger' - the best boat in the world - sailing her 110,000 miles, into the Arctic and the Antarctic, around the Atlantics North and South and into the Baltic. She had junk rig - the only rig I ever want to cruise with. Pete wanted to build again - a 38 ft junk-rigged catamaran, 'China Moon' - which he designed. But before the project was finished, we went our separate ways. A year later I joined Trevor Robertson aboard his 35ft 'Iron Bark'. We explored the Canadian Maritimes, crossed the Atlantic twice, wintered in Greenland and crossed the Pacific to Australia and New Zealand. I fell in love with NZ and jumping ship, bought my own boat while Trevor carried on voyaging. I put a junk rig onto ‘Fantail’ and, having decided that N Island offered better cruising opportunities than S Island, sailed up there in 2012. Looking for a boat to see me out, I am now building a 26ft, wood/epoxy junk in Whangarei.

Wednesday, 24 October 2007


(Horseshoe Bay on old charts)

54o14'S 36o39'W

Chart 3589, Approaches to Stromness and Cumberland Bays


During the whaling era, the Postman delivered the mail to the stations in Stromness Bay by rowing across Cumberland West Bay from Maiviken to Carlita Bay, and then walking over the col to Husvik and on to the other two stations. At one time, there was a Postman's refuge hut, but this has now gone. Instead there is a newer hut, built by BAS in the early 60's. It is used as a refuge hut by the Garrison and is stocked with emergency supplies. When we visited in 1995, the hut had been damaged by storms with the floor, walls and roof all having been displaced from one another. Unless it is repaired, it will probably not last long.


The approach to Carlita Bay might well necessitate a certain amount of dodging around ice calved from the Neumayer Glacier.


Anchorage was found off the hut, in 4m, mud with no kelp. The bay is well sheltered from the W through N to NE. On the occasion of Badger's visit, there was quite a lot of ice in the anchorage and because of this, it would not be advisable to leave a yacht unattended or to anchor overnight in this bay.

From Carlita Bay, it is a fairly easy 2½ to 3 hour walk to Husvik. A good view of the Neumayer Glacier can be obtained by climbing the hill to the W of the bay.


54o11'S 36o32'W

Chart 3589, Approaches to Stromness and Cumberland Bays


An anchorage was found in the cove at the W side of this bay, in 6.5m in a clear patch among the kelp. It is sheltered from the SW through W to N.

When we entered, the cove was almost ice free, but a few hours later, a bergy bit drifted in and threatened Badger's tranquillity. An alternative anchorage in Maiviken was chosen for the night.

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