Badger

Badger

Iron Bark II

Iron Bark II

About Me

My photo
I first crossed the Atlantic in 1975 on 'Stormalong', a 28ft Wharram-designed catamaran. Back in the UK, Pete and I bought an ex 6-metre racing yacht, 'Sheila', living on her for 4 years. Wanting to do more and go further, we built 'Badger' - the best boat in the world - sailing her 110,000 miles, to the Arctic and the Antarctic, around the Atlantic North and South and into the Baltic. She had junk rig - the only rig I will ever now cruise with. Pete wanted to build a 38 ft junk-rigged catamaran, 'China Moon' - which he designed. But before the project was finished, we went our separate ways. A year later I joined Trevor Robertson aboard his 35ft 'Iron Bark'. We explored the Canadian Maritimes, crossed the Atlantic twice, wintered in Greenland and crossed the Pacific to Australia and New Zealand. I fell in love with NZ and jumping ship, bought my own boat while Trevor carried on voyaging. I put a junk rig onto ‘Fantail’ and, having decided that N Island offered better cruising opportunities than S Island, sailed up there in 2012. Looking for a boat to see me out, I built the 26ft 'FanShi' and now live on board her, pottering about, generally around the Bay of Islands.

Tuesday, 11 February 2025

KEN POUNDER BAY AND SADDLE ISLAND PASSAGE


54o08'S 37o43'W
Chart 3597, South Georgia

This small cove was named by Gerry Clark, who anchored here. On the general chart of South Georgia, an island is marked between Saddle Island and the mainland. This island is actually joined to South Georgia by a narrow, shingle isthmus, which forms the SW end of the cove.

Approach from the NE and enter the cove between the kelp on either shore. On the occasion of Badger's visit, we did not actually anchor, but it appeared to be possible.

Anchor near the head of the cove, just outside the line of kelp off the shingle beach, in about 11.5m. Shelter from the sea from the SE through W to NW. There was some swell in the cove.


KEN POUNDER BAY, LOOKING S TOWARDS THE SHINGLE SPIT


SADDLE ISLAND PASSAGE

A clear passage exists between Saddle Island and the mainland, although it is somewhat restricted due to the kelp on either side. A minimum depth of 24m was found. When traversed, the wind was very variable in the passage and there was quite a jobble, which made sailing through very difficult.



CHEAPMAN BAY

54o09'S 37o33'W
Chart 3597, South Georgia

A band of thick kelp running SW-NE across the bay marks the terminal moraine. Towards the SW end of the kelp line, is a conspicuous rock and the kelp is much less dense close NE of this rock. When entering the inner bay, we crossed this band of kelp about 100m NE of the rock. The minimum depth in the kelp was 3m, but just inshore of the kelp, the bottom shoaled to an estimated 1.5m at low water. Close N of the rock was a breaking wave, which suggested even shallower water.

On leaving the bay the following morning, we crossed the moraine approximately 200m NE of the rock. There was more swell and at times a breaking wave extended almost the whole length of the moraine, inshore of the kelp. When passing through this breaker, we were in 5.5m and found a minimum of an estimated 2.1m at low water just inshore of the kelp. Depths in the weed were about 3m. The kelp was fairly thick, but we motored through with no problems.

A heavy swell from the S could possibly cause a yacht to be trapped behind the moraine until such time as it subsided.

Anchorage was found off the middle of the 3 glaciers at the W end of the bay. A kelp-marked, terminal moraine enclosed an inner pool off the glacier, with a drying rock in the middle of the kelp. We anchored outside the moraine in 15m with the depth rapidly increasing to 21m off the moraine.

Close SW of this anchorage is a small cove, with a shingle beach, but it was completely choked with kelp. At the time of our visit, the glacier calved quite a number of small pieces of ice, which filled the inner basin and slowly streamed past us, creating much noise, if little danger.

This anchorage is in a most spectacular setting, with the glacier descending the mountain almost vertically. There is good shelter from the N and W and little swell.


CHEAPMAN BAY, LOOKING N


Wednesday, 4 September 2024

KING HAAKON BAY


54o09'S 37o16'W 
Chart 3597, South Georgia

This bay is famous because it is here that Sir Ernest Shackleton and his party landed after their epic voyage in the 22ft James Caird, to rescue the other men trapped on Elephant Island. In clear weather, it is a magnificent sight to sail up the bay, which has many glaciers descending to the sea.


Much of the entrance to the bay is blocked by McNeish Island, the McCarthy Islands and the shoals and rocks around them. When entering, either pass into Cheapman Bay and then N of McNeish Island, or keep fairly close N of Cape Rosa, at the southern entrance to the bay. If passing by Cape Rosa, look out for the tiny cove E of the Cape, where Shackleton made his first landing at `Cave Camp'.

Half way along the bay, is a kelp-marked terminal moraine. Passing through the kelp N of the middle of the bay, we found a minimum of 8m. Towards the S shore is a clear channel through the kelp with a minimum of 24m; it is sufficiently wide to beat through easily.

Near the head of the bay, on the N shore, is Peggotty Bluff, a conspicuous, tussac-covered headland that appears to be an island, from some way off. This is where Shackleton made his second landing and from where he left to cross South Georgia to Stromness.

Peggoty Bluff

Shelter from the sea can be found from the NW through N to NE in the small bight to the W of Peggotty Bluff. It appeared possible to anchor in 10m, close E of a conspicuous kelp patch off the beach at the western end of the bight, but we did not do so.

About ½ mile SE of Peggotty Bluff are the Vincent Islands. There is an anchorage at the E end of the E island in about 6m. Anchor in a clear patch in the kelp. The island gives shelter from the W. A shingle beach provides a landing close to the anchorage. Note the broken trypot, largely covered by tussac at the top of the beach.

McNeish, McCarthy and Vincent are the names of the crew of the James Caird who stayed behind while Shackleton, Worsley and Crean crossed the island.


EAST VINCENT ISLAND LOOKING W ALONG KING HAAKON BAY


EAST VINCENT ISLAND, LOOKING E TOWARDS SHACKLETON GAP







Tuesday, 3 September 2024

ESBENSEN BAY

 
54o51'S 35o58'W 
Chart 3597, South Georgia


The entrance to this bay is close SW of Nattris Head (the S entrance to Drygalski Fjord) with a large snowfield at its head. On a fine day, this makes a most spectacular anchorage, but passing by the bay in a NW gale, there was a constant stream of fierce williwaws blowing out of the mouth. This was also the case with both Smaaland Cove and Doubtful Bay. The southern tip of South Georgia has a reputation for very turbulent conditions.

The entrance to the bay is straightforward, with bands of kelp lining each shore.

Anchor at the head of the bay in a clear patch in the thick kelp, in about 11m.

The Pilot suggests that there is a pass over the col to Larsen Harbour, but the snow bank leading up to it is very steep. On Shannon Point, there is a Macaroni penguin colony.


ESBENSEN BAY, LOOKING SE








Tuesday, 27 August 2024

LARSEN HARBOUR


54o50'S 36o01'W
Chart 3585, Larsen Harbour


This is a spectacular, high-sided fjord, with a glacier at its very head. There is good protection from the sea from all quarters, but apparently it is subject to fierce squalls in heavy weather. When visited by Badger, there was a S to SE gale blowing outside, but only the occasional gust was experienced in the harbour.

Anchor to the E of the Fairway Rock off Bonner Beach in 4.5m, mud, in a patch clear of kelp or off the opposite shore if it promises more shelter from the wind or squalls.
Bonner Beach is reported to have Weddell seals on it from time to time, but there was none seen when visited in early January.

The low col, S of Bonners Beach, leads over to Ebensen Bay, but it is very steep and the snow slope on the other side is even steeper. There is a good stream near to the beach.

Whalers used to moor their catch in this harbour and the remains of an old barrel buoy are on Bonner Beach, near to the stream.


LARSEN HARBOUR, LOOKING N





PARECE BUENA COVE

54o47'S 35o53'W 
Chart 3597, South Georgia

Gerry Clark visited this cove and named it 'Parece Buena' (it appears good). It seems well named, as it offers shelter from the sea from all but the S and SE.

The cove has much kelp; we anchored off the beach at the N end in 11m, in a relatively clear patch.

On the beach here, are several large, old timbers from a ship. Although this appears to be a non-breeding beach, there were a lot of fur seals ashore.



PARECE BUENA COVE, LOOKING SE