Badger

Badger

Iron Bark II

Iron Bark II

About Me

My photo
I first crossed the Atlantic in 1975 on 'Stormalong', a 28ft Wharram-designed catamaran. Back in the UK, Pete and I bought an ex 6-metre racing yacht, 'Sheila', living on her for 4 years. Wanting to do more and go further, we built 'Badger' - the best boat in the world - sailing her 110,000 miles, to the Arctic and the Antarctic, around the Atlantic North and South and into the Baltic. She had junk rig - the only rig I will ever now cruise with. Pete wanted to build a 38 ft junk-rigged catamaran, 'China Moon' - which he designed. But before the project was finished, we went our separate ways. A year later I joined Trevor Robertson aboard his 35ft 'Iron Bark'. We explored the Canadian Maritimes, crossed the Atlantic twice, wintered in Greenland and crossed the Pacific to Australia and New Zealand. I fell in love with NZ and jumping ship, bought my own boat while Trevor carried on voyaging. I put a junk rig onto ‘Fantail’ and, having decided that N Island offered better cruising opportunities than S Island, sailed up there in 2012. Looking for a boat to see me out, I built the 26ft 'FanShi' and now live on board her, pottering about, generally around the Bay of Islands.

Friday, 21 February 2025

LEITH HARBOUR


54o08'S 36o 41'W
Chart 3589, Approaches to Leith, Stromness and Husvik Harbours


This was another whaling station, but it was more famous in recent years as the site of the start of the Falklands Conflict.  In 1982, an Argentine commercial salvage operation was used to disguise the arrival of military personnel, who eventually invaded the island. 


A view of Leith Harbour from Grass Island


As a consequence of the salvage work (which was never completed) there is a huge pile of rusting machinery and parts by the main dock. Much more is scattered about making this station probably the worst eyesore on the island, which is saying a lot. 


While many of the buildings are still standing, time and vandalism have taken their usual toll.

If you intend to stay for several days, it is possible to moor in a small basin a short distance NW of the main dock. This offers good protection from the sea from all quarters. The NW corner of the basin is shoal with the remains of a small wooden boat showing at low water. The depth at the SE end is not known, but is believed to be sufficient for most yachts. NW winds can blow here with extreme violence. Some swell may be experienced in the basin.


LEITH HARBOUR, SMALL BOAT BASIN - LOOKING E

The main dock is still in reasonable condition, with heavy fendering on the SE side which has a depth of 6.5m alongside. A dense patch of kelp exists between the shore and the SE side of the jetty, which makes it advisable to approach from the NE.

A yellow mooring buoy is laid and maintained by the Admiralty, in Leith Harbour, for the use of ships.


LEITH HARBOUR, THE MAIN JETTY – LOOKING NE




GRASS ISLAND

 
54o09'S 36o40'W
Chart 3589, Approaches to Leith, Stromness and Husvik Harbours


This island guards the entrance to Stromness Harbour. On the E side of the island is an anchorage giving good shelter from the SW through W to N, without the fierce squalls that apparently affect Stromness Harbour itself, in W'ly gales. It is, however, wide open to the E.

Anchor in about 12m in a patch clear of kelp. It is possible to land on the beach to the W of the anchorage.

The old lighthouse building on the E point of the island is still in quite good condition.


GRASS ISLAND, LOOKING S







CAPE SAUNDERS BAY

 
54o08'S 36o39'W
Chart 3589, Approaches to Stromness and Cumberland Bays


About ½ mile SW of Cape Saunders is an unnamed bay, offering a good anchorage with shelter from the N and W.

If coming from Leith or Stromness Harbours, it is possible to pass inside Black Rocks, but care should be taken to avoid the drying rock 1½ cables W of the western islet. There is plenty of room to tack through the centre of the channel. Note that there is a drying rock, shown on the chart, 2 cables S of the headland to the W of Cape Saunders Bay, which should also be avoided.

Anchor near the centre of the bay in 10m, in a patch clear of kelp. The bottom is fine sand, with kelp.


CAPE SAUNDERS BAY, LOOKING NW



HERCULES BAY

 
54o07'W 36o40
Chart 3589, Approaches to Stromness and Cumberland Bays


The entrance to this bay is situated 1 mile WNW of Cape Saunders. There is deep water inshore of Humpback Rocks and Turpie Rock.

The bay appears to be clear of dangers, except possibly close inshore.

At the head of the bay there is a conspicuous waterfall; sail towards this and anchor in 11m. The bottom seems to be clear of kelp. 


There is good shelter from all directions with the exception of the NE'ly quadrant.

When we visited, Fur seals, Elephant seals and King penguins were in profusion on the beach, in front of the waterfall.  On the cliff to the S of this beach, is a large colony of Macaroni penguins.


This is a delightful anchorage and well worth a visit.


HERCULES BAY, LOOKING SW









FORTUNA BAY

 
This is an attractive bay with both the Konig Glacier and the S arm of the Fortuna Glacier flowing towards the bay. Both of these have retreated back from the shoreline. Although the broad expanse of these glaciers may well give rise to strong local winds, none was experienced in the light NE'ly conditions prevailing on the occasion of Badger's visit.


King penguins in front of Fortuna Glacier

Three anchorages were visited and shelter can be found from all but the North in one or other of these.


ILLUSION COVE

54o06'S 36o48'W
Chart 3585, Fortuna Bay


A small cove is formed S of Illusion Point. There appears to be an anchorage in 11.5m, in a patch clear of the extensive kelp. This ought to give shelter from W and N.  

We did not visit this cove and there is no information in The Totorore Voyage

ANCHORAGE BAY

54o07'S 36o49'W
Chart 3585, Fortuna Bay


Anchorage Bay is by the S arm of the Fortuna Glacier. On the occasion of Badger's visit, it was found possible to anchor S of the southern of the two streams entering the bay. There is a sizeable kelp patch off the beach and clear water inshore of it. Depths are 8m and there is plenty of swinging room. Shelter can be found from NNW through W to S.


ANCHORAGE BAY, LOOKING NE


King penguins, Anchorage Bay

WHISTLE COVE

54o09'S 36o49'W
Chart 3585, Fortuna Bay


This cove is at the SW corner of the bay, south of Peruque Pt and provides a good anchorage, from where a visit can be made to the King penguin colony, situated on the moraine at the W side of the Konig Glacier front. This glacier is at the S end of the Bay.

Anchorage was found in 6.5m, fine sand, with no kelp. The cove is sheltered from S through W to NW.

There were only a few fur seals ashore here.


WHISTLE COVE, LOOKING N

SMALL BAY

54o07'S 36o47'W
Chart 3585, Fortuna Bay


Situated halfway down the E shore of Fortuna Bay, there is good shelter here from the NE through E to SSE. Anchorage was found at the S end of the bay in 11m, in a patch clear of kelp.


SMALL BAY, LOOKING S




Thursday, 20 February 2025

BLUE WHALE HARBOUR

 
54o04'S 37o01'W
Chart 3585, Blue Whale Harbour


This harbour is situated on the E side of the entrance to Possession Bay and is one of the more sheltered anchorages in South Georgia.

The entrance has much kelp in it, but a clear passage can be found by favouring the W side. The best shelter appears to be in the NW cove, SW of Shelter Point and off the caves, in 8.5m, in a patch clear of kelp. Blue Whale Harbour is open only to the N, but in the recommended anchorage, protection from this direction will be given by Shelter Point. 


BLUE WHALE HARBOUR, LOOKING NW


A pleasant and easy walk can be taken to visit Antarctic Bay. This will be found by crossing the low col to the E of the harbour. It is possible to land on the beach S of Clear Point.


Looking ovver Antarctic Bay