Badger

Badger

Iron Bark II

Iron Bark II

About Me

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I first crossed the Atlantic in 1975 on 'Stormalong', a 28ft Wharram-designed catamaran. Back in the UK, Pete and I bought an ex 6-metre racing yacht, 'Sheila', living on her for 4 years. Wanting to do more and go further, we built 'Badger' - the best boat in the world - sailing her 110,000 miles, to the Arctic and the Antarctic, around the Atlantic North and South and into the Baltic. She had junk rig - the only rig I will ever now cruise with. Pete wanted to build a 38 ft junk-rigged catamaran, 'China Moon' - which he designed. But before the project was finished, we went our separate ways. A year later I joined Trevor Robertson aboard his 35ft 'Iron Bark'. We explored the Canadian Maritimes, crossed the Atlantic twice, wintered in Greenland and crossed the Pacific to Australia and New Zealand. I fell in love with NZ and jumping ship, bought my own boat while Trevor carried on voyaging. I put a junk rig onto ‘Fantail’ and, having decided that N Island offered better cruising opportunities than S Island, sailed up there in 2012. Looking for a boat to see me out, I built the 26ft 'FanShi' and now live on board her, pottering about, generally around the Bay of Islands.

Wednesday, 4 September 2024

KING HAAKON BAY


54o09'S 37o16'W Chart 3597, South Georgia


This bay is famous because it is here that Sir Ernest Shackleton and his party landed after their epic voyage in the 22ft James Caird, to rescue the other men trapped on Elephant Island. In clear weather, it is a magnificent sight to sail up the bay, which has many glaciers descending to the sea.


Much of the entrance to the bay is blocked by McNeish Island, the McCarthy Islands and the shoals and rocks around them. When entering, either pass into Cheapman Bay and then N of McNeish Island, or keep fairly close N of Cape Rosa, at the southern entrance to the bay. If passing by Cape Rosa, look out for the tiny cove E of the Cape, where Shackleton made his first landing at `Cave Camp'.


Half way along the bay, is a kelp-marked terminal moraine. Passing through the kelp N of the middle of the bay, we found a minimum of 8m. Towards the S shore is a clear channel through the kelp with a minimum of 24m; it is sufficiently wide to beat through easily.


Near the head of the bay, on the N shore, is Peggotty Bluff, a conspicuous, tussac-covered headland that appears to be an island, from some way off. This is where Shackleton made his second landing and from where he left to cross South Georgia to Stromness.


Shelter from the sea can be found from the NW through N to NE in the small bight to the W of Peggotty Bluff. It appeared possible to anchor in 10m, close E of a conspicuous kelp patch off the beach at the western end of the bight, but we did not do so.


About ½ mile SE of Peggotty Bluff are the Vincent Islands. There is an anchorage at the E end of the E island in about 6m. Anchor in a clear patch in the kelp. The island gives shelter from the W. A shingle beach provides a landing close to the anchorage. Note the broken trypot, largely covered by tussac at the top of the beach.


McNeish, McCarthy and Vincent are the names of the crew of the James Caird who stayed behind while Shackleton, Worsley and Crean crossed the island.



EAST VINCENT ISLAND LOOKING W ALONG KING HAAKON BAY

EAST VINCENT ISLAND, LOOKING E TOWARDS SHACKLETON GAP







Tuesday, 3 September 2024

ESBENSEN BAY

 

54o51'S 35o58'W Chart 3597, South Georgia



The entrance to this bay is close SW of Nattris Head (the S entrance to Drygalski Fjord) with a large snowfield at its head. On a fine day, this makes a most spectacular anchorage, but passing by the bay in a NW gale, there was a constant stream of fierce williwaws blowing out of the mouth. This was also the case with both Smaaland Cove and Doubtful Bay. The southern tip of South Georgia has a reputation for very turbulent conditions.


The entrance to the bay is straightforward, with bands of kelp lining each shore.


Anchor at the head of the bay in a clear patch in the thick kelp, in about 11m.


The Pilot suggests that there is a pass over the col to Larsen Harbour, but the snow bank leading up to it is very steep. On Shannon Point, there is a Macaroni penguin colony.




ESBENSEN BAY, LOOKING SE






Tuesday, 27 August 2024

LARSEN HARBOUR


54o50'S 36o01'W Chart 3585, Larsen Harbour


This is a spectacular, high-sided fjord, with a glacier at its very head. There is good protection from the sea from all quarters, but apparently it is subject to fierce squalls in heavy weather. When visited by Badger, there was a S to SE gale blowing outside, but only the occasional gust was experienced in the harbour.

Anchor to the E of the Fairway Rock off Bonner Beach in 4.5m, mud, in a patch clear of kelp or off the opposite shore if it promises more shelter from the wind or squalls.
Bonner Beach is reported to have Weddell seals on it from time to time, but there was none seen when visited in early January.

The low col, S of Bonners Beach, leads over to Ebensen Bay, but it is very steep and the snow slope on the other side is even steeper. There is a good stream near to the beach.

Whalers used to moor their catch in this harbour and the remains of an old barrel buoy are on Bonner Beach, near to the stream.


LARSEN HARBOUR, LOOKING N





PARECE BUENA COVE

54o47'S 35o53'W Chart 3597, South Georgia


Gerry Clark visited this cove and named it 'Parece Buena' (it appears good). It seems well named, as it offers shelter from the sea from all but the S and SE.

The cove has much kelp; we anchored off the beach at the N end in 11m, in a relatively clear patch.

On the beach here, are several large, old timbers from a ship. Although this appears to be a non-breeding beach, there were a lot of fur seals ashore.



PARECE BUENA COVE, LOOKING SE




Tuesday, 23 July 2024

COOPER SOUND

 

A passage leads between Cooper Island and the mainland. It is straightforward if the Cooper Bay shore is favoured. There are rocks off either shore and beds of kelp, but there is plenty of room to tack through.


On the several occasions that we passed through the Sound, the current usually ran eastwards.


To the W of Cooper Bay there is a colony of Chinstrap penguins on the beach, the only one in South Georgia. Further W on the hillside, is a very large colony of Macaroni penguins.






COOPER BAY

 

54o46'S 35o49'W

Chart 3597, South Georgia


Two good anchorages are available within the bay.


THE LAGOON


To the E of the entrance to the inner bay, is a small lagoon formed by the shore and a ring of rocks. The entrance is between the most W rock and the shoreline. There is kelp in this narrow channel, but it is at its thinnest near to the rock. We found a minimum of an estimated 1.8m at low water.


The lagoon itself offers complete protection from the sea, but it is very small, and a yacht must be moored if it is to stay in the centre of the lagoon, where the depth is 2.7m.  At the E side, there is a drying rock, off which are several underwater rocks with less than 1.3m over them.


There is a Macaroni penguin colony around the headland to the E of the lagoon.  Ashore are a lot of Fur seals, but it appears to be a non-breeding beach.




THE LAGOON, LOOKING SW TOWARDS COOPER SOUND





INNER BAY, LOOKING SE TOWARDS COOPER ISLAND



INNER BAY


At the NW head of the Bay is an inner bay, offering good protection from the sea from all directions, with the exception of SE. Although large amounts of kelp grow along the edges of the bay, there is a relatively clear patch in the middle.


Anchor in about 5m.